BEST OF THE ROCKIES

Colorado’s Skiing Super latives

Dozens of ski resorts pepper the mountainsides throughout Colorado, and most are an easy drive from Denver International Airport. So how do you choose the resort that’s right for you? First, ask yourself: Will you need to take lessons? Looking for knee-knocking steeps? Need something for the whole family? Craving a slope-side filet mignon? Hoping to spot a celebrity?

Consider your wish list fulfilled with this guide to the best ski resorts in the state.

BY GINA DEMILLO WAGNER

BEST FOR BEGINNERS: BUTTERMILK
220 MILES FROM DENVER www.aspensnowmass.com
Located a few miles outside of Aspen, Buttermilk is the Harvard of ski schools. Some of the best instructors in the world work here and can off er a learning experience like no other. Small class sizes are the norm, which means students get plenty of individual attention. In addition, the terrain is beginner-friendly: More than 70% of the runs are rated easy or intermediate, and most of the mountain’s 470 acres are groomed each night.

BEST MOGULS: MARY JANE
88 MILES FROM DENVER www.skiwinterpark.com
Once you experience the impact of the long, relentless bump runs, you’ll understand why locals oft en say, “no pain, no Jane.” Part of Winter Park Resort, Mary Jane is consistently voted the best spot for moguls by skiers nationwide. Start gently along the blue-black runs, and progress to the jackhammer steeps and glades where the moguls are as big as cars. You’ll take a step out of your comfort zone, but the payoff is some of the most stunning 12,000-foot vistas in the Rockies.

BEST FOR FAMILIES: SNOWMASS
200 MILES FROM DENVER www.aspensnowmass.com Traveling with the family means catering to a variety of needs and personalities. Snowmass delivers on all counts with varied terrain for skiing and snowboarding. It is said to be the open-glade cruising capital of Colorado with quality terrain for all skills, ages and passions. Plus, your little ones won’t get bored waiting in lift lines, since the runs are long and the chairs are fast. The mountain also includes three terrain parks, a superpipe and railyard. Bonus: Almost all the lodging at Snowmass is ski in/ski out, which eliminates the hassle of schlepping all your gear to and fro.

BEST APRÈS SKI SCENE: VAIL
97 MILES FROM DENVER www.vail.snow.com
Sure, the mountain is enormous and the snow is unbeatable. But at Vail, après is the name of the game for those who like to see and be seen. When the lifts close, the town heats up. Vail’s bars and nightclubs are as diverse as the patrons; you’ll find down-to-earth GORE-TEX-clad ski bums right down the street from fur-wearing celebrities. Where to begin? For great people-watching at the base, head to Garfinkel’s (www.garfsvail.com), while Bart & Yeti’s (www.bartandyetis.com) is a local, low-key favorite. If you’re lucky, snag a seat on the front deck at The Red Lion (www.theredlion.com). Other top choices include Pepi’s (www.pepis.com) and The Tap Room (www.taproomvail.com). If you’re looking for a good seasonal meal to accompany your cocktail, head to Kelly Liken (www.kellyliken.com).

MOST SNOWBOARDER-FRIENDLY: ECHO MOUNTAIN
58 MILES FROM DENVER www.echomtnpark.com
Th is brand-new resort is a mecca for snowboarders and freestyle skiers. No celebrities or fur coats here: It’s a grassroots mountain full of natural and man-made features you can ride, such as rails, jumps, pipes, trees and open slopes. It’s also a great place to learn or improve your skills in a supportive, friendly atmosphere. Best of all, you won’t spend a fortune (a season pass costs less than two lift tickets at Vail), and it’s an easy drive from downtown Denver.

BEST EATS: ASPEN MOUNTAIN
181 MILES FROM DENVER www.aspensnowmass.com
Aspen Mountain is known for its scrumptious five-star cuisine. 39 Degrees (www.theskyhotel.com), in the swanky Sky Hotel, is ideal for noshing après ski, while DishAspen (www.dishaspen.com) is the place to linger over a dinner of garlic-and-mint-rubbed lamb sirloin and lobster-and-goat-cheese mashed potatoes. On slope, sit down at Cloud Nine Alpine Bistro, which is open daily for lunch and Thursday nights for special snowcat dinners. Or, check out the 11,212-foot-high Sundeck, a lodge that features 30-foot ceilings and a massive rock fireplace. Don’t let its “cafeteria” fool you—a full grill, made-to-order sandwiches, vegetarian items and fresh desserts await.

And if you’re hungry at the bottom, grab a table for lunch or dinner at the newly renovated Ajax Tavern (www.thelittlenell.com), which reopens this Th anksgiving. Don’t leave this French bistro-style eatery without a taste of its famous truffle fries.

BEST SLOPESIDE BAR: BRECKENRIDGE
104 MILES FROM DENVER
www.breckenridge.snow.com At the base of Peak 8 is Bergenhof—or Bergy, as the locals call it—a tropical oasis at 10,000 feet. Outside at Bergy Beach and Tiki Bar, relax and watch skiers pass by as you imbibe. Or, head inside and socialize in the relaxed Silver Bullet Saloon, which offers a variety of après ski specials, or satisfy your hunger at BBQ. Once you’ve had your fill, burn off the calories on Breck’s legendary slopes or head into town for evening entertainment.

BEST PACKAGE DEAL: ARAPAHOE BASIN
90 MILES FROM DENVER
www.arapahoebasin.com If you’re a beginner skier, there’s nothing better than the “Guarantee To Ski/Ride” package. For $309, you get a season pass, three lessons and full-day equipment rentals with your lessons. If you’re not skiing or riding on blue terrain by the end of your third one, the resort gives you free lessons until you do. And since Arapahoe Basin is one of the first resorts to open and last to close, you’ll get more bang for your buck.

BEST NON-SKI ACTIVITIES: KEYSTON
90 MILES FROM DENVER
www.keystone.snow.com Not in the mood to ski? Reserve an afternoon horse-drawn stagecoach ride through the Snake River Valley or book the family on a sleigh ride to a homestead cabin, where cowboys cook over an open flame. Skate on the 5-acre frozen surface of Keystone Lake, the largest outdoor maintained ice rink in the country. Snowshoe trails offer a leisurely way to explore the mountains; rentals are available at the Nordic ski center. Nearby, the towns of Dillon and Silverthorne off er shopping, restaurants and live music venues.