Bay Cheese!

THE BAY AREA HAS A LONG HISTORY OF PRODUCING SOME OF THE COUNTRY’S BEST FROMAGE.

BY KAREN LELAND

Sommeliers around the world agree that wine and cheese go together like bread and butter. So, it’s no surprise that the Bay Area, famous for its surrounding vineyards, is also a hotspot for cheese lovers.

The cheese trend is nothing new to San Francisco. During the Gold Rush, stevedores would lunch on a pickled egg and beer. Then a man named Jefferson Thompson had an idea: Let them eat cheese. Thompson, the founder of Marin French Cheese Company (www.marin.frenchcheese.com), began by selling his cheese to bars that hungry European dock-workers frequented.

Located in Petaluma (39 miles from San Francisco), the company has been in business for 143 years and is the oldest operating cheese company in the US. In 2006, it earned 16 awards in the American Cheese Society International Competition and six medals in the World Cheese Awards competition.

Marin French Cheese
Company in the early
1900sOwner Jim Boyce says it’s the North Bay’s terroir (loosely “sense of place,” in French) that inspires the production of artisanal cheeses. “The climate is ideal for making cheese,” he says. “The flavor cultures that we bring in from Normandy and other parts of France seem to do very well in the cool, humid climate of Marin County.” Tours demonstrate artisan cheese makers producing more than 35 varieties, all of which can be found in the store.

More than a century after Thompson paved the way, three siblings opened The Pasta Shop (www.thepastashop.net) in the heart of Berkeley’s foodie paradise. The cheese counter has more than 1,000 varieties—many seasonal—offering one of the area’s most extensive collections.

Juliana Uruburu, the store’s cheese director and a judge for the American Cheese Society, is a passionate advocate for local cheeses and loves to guide customers by having them taste their way to the best choice. “It’s wonderful being surrounded by so many talented cheese makers,” she says. “My staff and I have the opportunity to visit the farms and dairies, and develop relationships with the individuals who make the cheese.”

This easy access to local talent gives her staff an in-depth knowledge of the products they are selling. “There are many cheese counters in stores where everything is precut, and it’s up to the customer to pick up something that looks good or they have heard about,” she says. “Our cheese department is separate from the rest of the store, and my staff dedicates all their time to helping the customer.”

With hundreds of types being produced, even the most cheese minded can feel overwhelmed. When Sara Vivenzio opened The Cheese School of San Francisco (www.cheeseschoolsf.com) in 2006, she had one goal in mind: to provide a place where both serious foodies and the merely curious could maximize their appreciation of cheese.

Today, it’s the only institution of its kind in the Bay Area, offering 8-10 monthly classes on everything from the history of cheese to creating the perfect pairing with beer, wine or whiskey. Classes require a short time commitment (two hours), but a big appetite— tastings come with accompaniments such as jam, chutney, quince paste, artisanal bread, nuts, dried fruit, and wine or beer. As for the instructors, Vivenzio hires experts from all over the Bay Area and beyond. One of the most popular classes is the Basic Cheese Primer, an information-packed session on the history and process of cheese making, including a taste test of 12 different cheeses from different flavor categories.

With its storied past and today’s myriad options, the future of the Bay Area cheese scene seems bright. Uruburu says, “I see tremendous expansion, because cheese is a wholesome product that comes from the heart, made by people who work hard every day to produce perfect gems.” As in Gold Rush days past, the region continues to bestow its natural riches.

CHEESE ABCs

Laura Werlin, author of the book Laura Werlin’s Cheese Essentials, says the key to negotiating your way around the cheese counter begins by learning to identify the eight basic types.

Fresh. This type is made and sold quickly. It’s not meant to age and won’t last long. Flavors are milky, tangy and sweet. Examples: mozzarella, goat and ricotta.
Semi Soft. This generally mildly flavored cheese has a spongy feel. It is creamy in the mouth and melts well. Examples: havarti, colby and gouda.
Soft Ripened. This very creamy cheese gets softer as it ages. The rind is meant to be eaten. Examples: camembert, brie and California humboldt fog.
Surface Ripened. Known for a wrinkly rind and a creamy center, this gets harder over time. Examples: cheese from France’s Loire Valley.
Semi Hard. The balance between salt, fat and protein makes it ideal for pairing with many wines. Examples: gruyere and cheddar.
Hard. Saltier and more granular, it can be grated as it ages and goes well with dried fruit. Example: parmigiano-reggiano.
Blue. Pungent, tangy and strong, this type of cheese can be creamy or crumbly. Examples: stilton and roquefort.
Washed Rind. The most aromatic type, these can usually be identified by their orange or pink rind. Example: taleggio.