TIME TO DINE
BY ALTUG SAMI ICILENSU
A World of Flavors
Paesanos’ signature
shrimp and pasta dish San Antonio is a city overflowing with diversity, where Tex-Mex isn’t the only thing on the menu. Here’s a taste of what else is cooking.
Any local can tell you about the colorful Mexican heritage of this warm-blooded town. the culture made its way into cuisine early on, creating Tex-Mex food, a zesty combination in which Anglo ingredients combine with Mexican flavors. this international marriage is spiced up with an African touch, as well, in the form of cumin, which was brought by settlers from the Canary Islands.
SUSHI ZUSHI
210-472-2900
this local four-restaurant chain (plus one in Dallas) stands out for the way it expertly fuses Japanese cuisine with Mexican fare, incorporating ingredients like Serrano, jalapeño and habanero peppers into the sushi. those who like a kick of spice should opt for the Toreado Roll (jalapeño toreado, crab and avocado, topped with baked scallop in a mild spicy mayonnaise sauce) or the Colonnade Roll (shrimp tempura, asparagus, cream cheese and avocado topped with plantains and chipotle sauce). the menu also off ers a wide range of traditional sushi and Japanese dishes. While each location exudes a unique vibe, the original downtown restaurant near the River Walk comes highly recommended.
TONG’S THAI
210-829-7345
Le Reve Get comfortable in this restaurant’s fun and friendly ambience, where you can feast on a menu of authentic th ai and Chinese dishes. Go for the house specialty, hawmok—a hot pot of squid, shrimp, mussels, scallops and fish with assorted herbs and vegetables swimming in spicy red curry. this dish made Citysearch San Antonio’s “5 to Try: Hot and Spicy Dishes” list. On the sweeter end of the spectrum, Tong’s thai takes credit for introducing bubble tea to the city, a refreshing Taiwanese drink of milky iced tea and black tapioca pearls; the menu off ers 21 diff erent flavors.
ILSONG GARDEN
210-366-4508
With numerous accolades from Zagat (it was the only Korean eatery on last year’s Zagat list of the top restaurants in the US), this fusion eatery has become famous for combining the flavors of traditional Korean barbecue with other Asian cuisines. Chef Young Cacy heads up the kitchen, adding her personal touch to such specialty dishes as bulgogi (tender marinated ribeye strips with a flavorful sauce) or bi bim bap, a dish of vegetables, beef and rice topped with a fried egg.
Middle Eastern/ Mediterranean
MINA & DIMI’S
210-674-3463
Don’t let its retail location deter you: When you walk in, the ocean-side ambience—complete with fishing nets hanging from the ceiling—hits you like a cool Mediterranean breeze. the New Zealand lamb chops are delicious enough to tempt almost any diner, and the dessert chef ’s special creation— baklava cheesecake with orange-honey syrup on top—will blow your mind. If the owner, Dimi, has time to sit down and share one of his comedic stories, you’re in for a treat—his sense of humor is legendary.
SHIRAZ
210-829-5050 If you like the tangy taste of pomegranate, you’ll love this elegant restaurant, which uses the fruit as a key ingredient in many of its dishes, including the delectable fesenjan (braised chicken stewed with pomegranates and walnuts) and bandary (beef sirloin in a spicy pomegranate sauce). Two sure bets for newcomers to Persian cuisine are the shrimp with lemon créme and saff ron sauce and the rack of lamb with mango sauce. Romantic and serene, Shiraz is the perfect setting for a special occasion—and occasional belly dancers add a little extra something.
DEMO’S
210-342-2772
Winner of San Antonio Express-News readers’ choice award for best Greek food, Demo’s is celebrating almost three decades of delighting locals. the restaurant was founded by Demosthenes Demetrius Karagas, who knows a thing or two about classic Greek cuisine, and the family continues to run the business, with three locations in San Antonio. the well-priced gyros and souvlaki with tzatziki sauce have a local following, and they’re even more enjoyable on the outdoor patio. Opa!
LA FRITE BELGIAN BISTRO
210-224-7555
Damien Vatel—a descendent of Louix XIV’s famous chef François Vatel—brings a mouthwatering Belgian experience to the arty Southtown district. Grab a table outside and people-watch as you chow down on mussels and fries (make sure to use the mayonnaise-based herb and garlic dip rather than ketchup) while washing them down with a crisp Belgian or French beer. the succulent steak au poivre and shrimp croquettes are other must-tries—and save room for a Belgian waffl e, which are always available.
LE RÊVE
210-212-2221
Rêve means “dream” in French, and the food and atmosphere at this standout eatery more than live up to its name, providing a fantasy-like dining experience. It comes as no surprise that this River Walk restaurant has been considered the best restaurant in all of Texas—no mean feat in the second-largest state. th e seasonal tasting menu paired with wine is the best way to experience a range of Chef Andrew Weissman’s creations. th e tournedo of beef with pearl onions and button mushrooms, and scallops with lime and coconut broth are both standouts. A meal here is truly a dream come true.
PAESANOS RIVERWALK
210-227-2782
Paesanos off ers fine Italian cuisine with that great Texas hospitality. Appetizers like the parmesan-crusted artichoke hearts with basil aioli set the stage for the eatery’s signature entrée, shrimp lightly breaded and served on a bed of freshly made pasta with lemon, butter and garlic; it may be simple, but it’s truly earned its spot on the menu. Save room for dessert (especially the raspberry chipotle brulée), and end your meal with a shot of mango tequila or zesty limoncello, fermented in-house.
Best of Tex-Mex
Àcenar
In addition to eating at San Antonio’s diverse collection of restaurants, chances are you’ll still want to sample some Mexican and Latin flavors. Here are a few top choices:
Rosario’s Café y Cantina
www.rosariossa.com 210-223-1806;
This vibrant King William Historic District mainstay has won countless local and national accolades.
Ácenar
www.acenar.com 210-222-2362 This funky River Walk restaurant and bar— complete with an outdoor patio—is full of energy.
Taco Taco Café
www.tacotacosa.com 210-822-9533 According to The Food Network, this small, family-owned restaurant serves the best tacos in America.
Beto’s Comida Latina
www.betoscomidalatina.com 210-930-9393 The empanadas—from spicy beef and red chili to a simple bean and cheese—put the restaurant on the map.
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