ROCHESTER, NY

LAND LAKES

BY JACKIE PERRIN

Named for the way the five largest of its 11 glacier-carved lakes spread out like digits on a hand, the Finger Lakes region, a short drive from Rochester, NY, is a picturesque refuge for the savvy traveler. While meandering along lakeside trails past lush vineyards and over gently rolling hills, explorers will find a surprising variety of attractions. Here’s a taste of what the Finger Lakes have to offer:

COOK SOMETHING UP

Brush up on your cooking skills or learn to make perfect pâte à choux (puff pastry) at the New York Wine & Culinary Center (www.nywcc.com). Located on the north shore of Canandaigua Lake, the architecturally impressive facility opened less than two years ago. Schedule time for a hands-on cooking class taught by a master chef, an intimate winemaker dinner or a celebrity chef demonstration.

While you’re at the center’s wine tasting room, try themed flights of wine or juice (if it’s available, try the double-gold award-winning Chateau Frank Célèbre NV or the Glendale Farm organic grape juice) from farms and vineyards throughout the state.

STORM A CASTLE

While an overnight stay in one of the area’s many B&Bs will set you back less than $100, dig a little deeper and you can sleep like a king or queen.

At Belhurst Castle (www.belhurst.com; 315-781-0201), an enchanting 1880s stone fortress overlooking Seneca Lake, curl up in one of 14 antique furnished chambers, many with water views. A quieter (and more updated) spot on the grounds is the Vinifera Inn, where turret rooms are furnished with gas fireplaces and Jacuzzis.

For another over-the-top experience, head to Skaneateles and unwind at the picture-perfect Mirbeau Inn & Spa (www.mirbeau.com; 877-647-2328). The grounds at the elegant country inn are modeled after a Monet painting.

With spa treatments like the Water Lilies Rainwater Body Scrub and an award-winning dining room dishing out desserts such as “mood-altering chocolate cake,” it’s no wonder the locals head to this luxury resort when they want to spoil themselves.

SIP ON SOMETHING GREAT

There is much debate among locals when it comes to picking the area’s best wine trails—but it’s safe to say Seneca Lake Wine Trail (www.senecalakewine.com), which boasts the largest concentration of tasting sites, is a good place to start.

At Fox Run Vineyards (www.foxrunvineyards.com), halfway down the west side of Seneca Lake, you can follow in the footsteps of a winemaker on a VIP tour. Go behind the scenes with co-owner and larger-than-life personality Scott Osborn or award-winning winemaker Peter Bell for a private barrel room tasting, regional cheese plate and all the knowledge you can soak up in two hours. (Just make sure to schedule the tour two weeks in advance.)

HUNT FOR HEIRLOOMS

The area between Keuka and Seneca

Lake is craft country. In and around these Amish and Mennonite communities, you’ll find woodworking businesses offering beautiful custom pieces for a song.

Begin your shopping journey at Weaver-View Farms (www.weaverviewfarms.com), a charming Mennonite-run shop on the west side of Seneca Lake. At The Windmill Farm & Craft Market (www.thewindmill.com), a seasonal marketplace open Saturdays April 26 through Dec. 13, browse nearly 200 vendors, take a horse and buggy ride, then chat up the locals for tips on area artisans. Or, just follow Route 14A for tempting roadside finds.

SEE SUFFRAGETTE CITY

In Seneca Falls, the site of America’s first Women’s Rights Convention (in 1848), tour the Women’s Rights National Historical Park (www.nps.gov/wori) and the privately run National Women’s Hall of Fame (www.greatwomen.org).

When you’ve had your fill of feminist facts, shop for tongue-in-cheek mementos at WomanMade Products (www.omanmadeproducts.com).

PACE YOURSELF

Make tracks to Watkins Glen International (www.theglen.com), the site of the US Grand Prix from 1961 to 1980. Outside of Sonoma Valley, “The Glen” is the only road track on the NASCAR Sprint Cup Series circuit.

From May through October, Thunder Road Tours (607-535-2338) will satisfy your need for speed. For $25, starting at noon, you can take three paced laps around the track in your own vehicle.

DELIVER THE MAIL

On crystal-clear Skaneateles Lake, take part in a 130-year-old tradition on a cruise aboard a working US mail boat. During a three-hour adventure on the Barbara S. Wiles, travelers will gain a unique perspective on the area. Don’t miss the dancing summer campers or a view of the lake’s high-end real estate. Operated by Mid-Lakes Navigation Company (www.midlakesnav.com), the cruise departs at 10am daily, except Sundays, from July 1 to Sept. 2. Seen from above, the arrangement of the Finger Lakes makes for an undoubtedly striking geographical phenomenon. But it’s from the ground (and water) that you get an even more interesting perspective of its beautiful, one-ofa-kind countryside and culture.

FINGER LAKIN’ FINGER LAKIN’ GOOD

Get a taste of these local favorites at diners and roadside stands throughout the region.

GRAPE PIE: Pastry made with tart Concord grape filling

FROZEN CUSTARD: Thick and creamy frozen dessert high in butterfat

SALT POTATOES: Baby potatoes with a crisp salted crust, served with melted butter for dipping

CORNELL CHICKEN BARBECUE SAUCE: Created in 1949 by Dr. Robert C. Baker, the Cornell University food scientist who invented the chicken nugget, this large batch recipe for tenderizing poultry calls for basting chicken in a tangy vinegar and egg wash, while grilling it over a low flame.

MAKE IT AT HOME!

INGREDIENTS

10 chicken halves

1 cup cooking oil 2 cups cider vinegar 3 tbsp salt 1 tbsp poultry seasoning ½ tsp pepper

1 egg

DIRECTIONS

Beat egg. Add oil and beat again. Add other ingredients and stir. Place chicken over fire after the flame is gone. Turn halves every 5 to 10 minutes, basting with a fiber brush at each turn. Baste lightly at first, and then heavily at the end of cooking—about an hour or until wing splits easily from body and no red color is visible.

Or, get a taste at Bakers’ Acres (www.bakersacres.net) in Groton, NY, or the New York State Fair (www.nysfair.org) in Syracuse, where the family-run Bakers’ Chicken Coop sets up shop (Aug. 21 through Sept. 1).