Grannies on Safari
BY ROD O’ CONNOR
PHOTOGRAPHY BY TROY FREUND
GRANNIES GONE WILD
Chicagoans Regina Fraser and Pat Johnson, hosts of the PBS show "Grannies on Safari", Take us on a Tour of their hometown.
Creators and co-hosts of the nationally syndicated PBS travel program “Grannies on Safari,” Regina Fraser, 65, a former marketing executive, and Pat Johnson, 63, a longtime arts administrator, have visited more than 80 countries between them. During the show’s first season in 2006, they explored destinations like Turkey, South Africa and Korea. In season two, which begins airing in May, they globetrot to Argentina and Canada.
But when we asked them for a personal tour of their favorite Chicago sites, they were more than happy to oblige. In fact, the Grannies treated this daylong excursion through their hometown with the same go-for-broke enthusiasm as their international adventures.
THE DAY BEGAN at Frank Lloyd Wright’s Robie House (www.wrightplus.org). Located in Hyde Park, about 7 miles south of the Loop, this architectural wonder stands in stark contrast to the neighboring gothic buildings that dominate the University of Chicago campus. Designated by the American Institute of Architects as one of the 12 most significant structures of the 20th century, the Robie House was designed in 1908, when Wright was living in west suburban Oak Park, and is perhaps the quintessential example of the star architect’s Prairie style. It’s also thought to have been Wright’s favorite project.
“This is one of Frank Lloyd Wright’s most famous places,” Johnson says. “Some say it’s his greatest.”
The narrow dwelling’s deceivingly large size—nearly 7,000 square feet—is attributed to its unique horizontal design. In a first for residential architecture, steel beams were used to stretch the roof 20 feet beyond the walls on each side to give the house its unmistakable look. The interior, currently under restoration, is equally impressive. The main living area’s high ceiling, open floor plan, and rows of art glass windows and doors make it feel like the walls around you dissolve.
While exploring the house with the Grannies, it’s obvious that the curiosity— and playful sparring—they display on their show is not staged. When not razzing each other in the kitchen about which one is old enough to remember the days when ice was delivered door to door, both women pepper our guide with questions on everything from the Robies’ family history (they fell into debt and had to sell the house shortly after moving in) to the wood used for the decorative wall sconces (red oak).
“It’s all these tiny little things, isn’t it?” Fraser says, commenting on the meticulous attention to detail, before jokingly asking our guide, “So can I move in when you finish the restoration?”
The next stop on our tour is the Museum of Science and Industry (www.msichicago.org), also in Hyde Park. Celebrating its 75th anniversary this year, this venerable institution is housed in the former Palace of Fine Arts building, which was originally constructed for the 1893 World’s Columbian Exposition in Chicago. It’s the first museum in North America to feature interactive exhibits, and the Grannies say its multigenerational appeal is the key to its longevity.
“This museum is accessible for all ages,” Fraser says. “Sometimes I come here with my grandchildren, and other times I come here with my husband.”
Shortly after entering this massive science-themed funhouse, we make a quick stop at the Earth Revealed exhibit to check out the large rotating 3-D earth and learn about magnetic fields and solar flares. Then, we head to what might be the museum’s most prized artifact: a U-505 German submarine.
The museum has showcased the sub since the 1950s, but the 35,000-square-foot exhibit that debuted in 2005 finally puts it in proper historical context by telling the story of its capture during the Battle of the Atlantic. Of course, touring the inside of the vessel is the real draw, allowing one to appreciate the fine German craft smanship up close.
ALONG WITH ART and culture, another hallmark of any “Grannies on Safari” episode is their exploration of local cuisines. after a busy morning of Windy City site-seeing, Fraser and Johnson decide to bypass the traditional deep-dish pizza and Chicago-style hot dogs in favor of a vegetarian restaurant in the heart of the vibrant Indian community.
While many visitors venture to Little Italy, Chinatown and the city’s other well-known ethnic enclaves, Devon Avenue on the far north side is a great way to get off the beaten path for something a little diff erent.
“Probably the best way to sample Indian culture is through their food,” Johnson says as we cruise down Lake Shore Drive. Sure enough, our tasty meal of curry dishes and flaky, savory samosas at Mysore Woodlands (773-338-8160) provides an accessible and authentic taste of the cuisine. For those with time to spare, Fraser suggests popping into one of the neighborhood’s many clothing boutiques for aff ordable Indian dresses and other garments.
After fueling up, we venture downtown to the Chicago Cultural Center (www.cityofchicago.org). Originally the public library, this Beaux-Arts building opened in 1897 in a post-Chicago Fire attempt to class-up the city’s hardscrabble, blue-collar reputation. Today, it serves as both a historically significant structure and a vital hub of local culture with free exhibits and concerts, a café and year-round arts-related programming. And seniors can visit Renaissance Court, an award-winning senior center with art classes, exercise sessions and other activities for adults age 55 or older.
Enter the center on the Washington Street side and you’ll step into what was once the library’s main reading room. Look up: The 38-foot dome made from stained glass from the Tiff any Company—the largest of its kind in the world—is right above. The impressive interior, built by first-generation European immigrants whose craft work has made a lasting impact, also includes rare imported marble, fine hardwood and colored stone.
“In most cases, these sort of interiors with the mosaics and the Tiff any glass, they’re not accessible [to everyone],” Fraser says. “But here, you can take the El or a bus, and you can come here, and it’s free. And for travelers, it’s an easy place to get to and an easy visit.”
AFTER A FEW hours at the Chicago Cultural Center, the Grannies advise a stroll across the street through Millennium Park—one of the newest, most comprehensive urban parks in the country.
“It’s a major destination,” Johnson says. “You can come here and look at world-class art, and in the wintertime you can skate [at the rink].”
“You know why I like it?” Fraser adds. “For someone coming here in the summertime, you can get a brown bag lunch and just sit here and people-watch and get a feel for what the vibrancy of this city is all about.”
What’s the perfect end to a perfect day in Chicago? For the ladies, Fraser recommends treating yourself to a day of beauty at Marilyn Miglin (www.marilynmiglin.com). Located on Oak Street (“Chicago’s Rodeo Drive,” Fraser says), this eponymous spa from the Home Shopping Network mainstay offers a full menu of salon services and an array of luxury perfumes in an approachable environment.
And trust us, after a full day walking in the shoes of these on-the-move grannies, you’ll need a little rest and relaxation.
TIPS FOR OLDER TRAVELERS:
KEEP ON KEEPIN’ ON
Both 60-something breast cancer survivors, Regina Fraser and Pat Johnson say they created the PBS show “Grannies on Safari” to show that people of any age can get out there and live life to its fullest. “You shouldn’t give up when you’re in your 60s,” Fraser says. “A lot of women have had experiences like us, and travel is a way to show you’re still participating in life… There’s so much more still to see. Why not continue to follow your dreams?”
Here are some tips from the Grannies to help older travelers follow their dreams, too.
Check out hotels in advance to ensure they have elevators and wheelchair access if needed.
Look for tour companies that have expertise dealing with older tourists.
Don’t plan to do everything in one day; spread things out so you can rest. Plus, if you cram too much in, you won’t enjoy it as much.
Pack carefully so that your medications are secured—and don’t bring those that need refrigeration.
Plan to dress in layers; it’s easier to take things off than put them on. Always bring comfortable shoes.
Go with an open mind. People are alike all over the country; they just do things differently.
The Grannies’ Greatest Trips
(IN THE WORDS OF REGINA FRASER)
Washington, DC
“There’s so much to do all year round. It’s easy to walk around; museums, theater, diversity and art abound, and there’s Georgetown!”
San Diego, CA
“The weather cooperates year round; places like La Jolla have art festivals; the beaches are accessible and beautiful; the food is outstanding. Lots of friendly people. Old Town is easy to walk around.”
San Juan, PR
“One of the best vacation spots in the region. Old San Juan has shopping, beaches, casinos and the culture of the island, plus some of the best and most diverse food anywhere, and hotels to fit any budget.”
Las Vegas, NV
“It’s a playground for all ages. So much to do: the shows, the pools, the casinos, the resorts, spas. It’s easy to navigate and a fun place to visit.”
Charleston, SC
“A fantastic vacation spot. Easy to navigate, good weather most of the time, beautiful hotels and bed and breakfasts. Historical tours are a must. Plus, great Low Country food.”