Four Corners of Puerto Rico
THE ISLAND MAY BE SMALLER THAN THE STATE OF CONNECTICUT, BUT IT POSSESSES A WEALTH OF ADVENTURES NO MATTER WHICH QUADRANT YOU CHOOSE.
BY JOANNE CURCIO-QUIÑONES
UERTO RICO IS PROOF THAT BIG THINGS COME IN SMALL PACKAGES.
The 100-mile-long by 35-mile-wide Caribbean island is both old and new, unspoiled and cosmopolitan, lively and secluded. But what really makes the “Island of Enchantment” stand out is the sheer breadth of its cultural, historical and natural attractions. Miles of sun-kissed shoreline and hundreds of idyllic waterfront spots are a beach lover’s dream come true. It’s blessed with natural wonders like a tropical rainforest, magical bioluminescent bays and an ancient underground cave system. And there’s no shortage of man-made creature comforts, from championship golf courses and world-class restaurants to stunning resorts. It’s a place where nature lovers can explore wonders, history buff s can soak up centuries of cultural legacies, and adventurers can take on new challenges. Which section you explore should depend on what kind of a vacation you have in mind.
SOUTH
The slower-paced south side has plenty to offer in terms of historic sights and museums. Ponce, the island’s second largest city—known as “The Pearl of the South”—is home to major attractions including the world-class Ponce Museum of Art (www.museoarteponce.org), one of the finest museums in Latin America. (Th e museum will be closing for renovations on March 30 for two years; its San Juan venue in the Plaza Las Américas mall will remain open.)
Besides the magnificent Spanish Colonial architecture and picturesque plazas, Ponce’s elegant historic district includes one of Puerto Rico’s most famous landmarks: Parque de Bombas de Ponce (787-284-3338). Th is Arabian-style red-and-black-checkered fire station building from the 1800s has become one of the island’s most photographed façades.
History enthusiasts shouldn’t miss the Tibes Indigenous Ceremonial Center, the oldest Indian cemetery ever found in the Antilles. The center’s museum showcases artifacts of prehistoric cultures that date back to 400BC, as well as a reconstructed Taíno village that gives visitors a peek into the lives of the island’s ancient tribe. Serrallés Castle Museum (www.castilloserralles.org), a magnificent Spanish revival mansion-turned-museum, and Hacienda Buena Vista (787-722-5882), a renovated 19th-century coff ee plantation, are also worthy stops.
NORTH
From one of the world’s biggest underground cave systems to the world’s biggest single-dish radio telescope, everything is surprisingly larger than life in the quaint countryside towns of northern Puerto Rico.
The town of Dorado is a big draw for golfers, with five impressive 18-hole golf courses, two of which were designed by the renowned Robert Trent Jones Sr.
The inland town of Arecibo is where you’ll find
Arecibo Observatory
(www.naic.edu), home to a 1,000-foot-wide, 167-feet-deep radio telescope. It covers an area of about 20 acres and is one of the most sensitive radio telescopes on Earth. The observatory has an exhibit that explains the workings of the instrument and provides visitors with an astronomical education.
Not far from Arecibo are several national forests noted and protected for their beauty, fragility and unique karstic landscape, as well as rare rock formations created by limestone sinkholes. A must-see in the north is the Rio Camuy Cave Park. A guided tour of the subterranean caverns that were formed more than a million years ago is a fascinating experience for visitors. A tour organized by Aventuras Tierra Adentro (www.aventuraspr.com) will take you around sinkholes and through massive stalagmite-filled caverns. Th e area surrounding this amazing natural wonder is also popular for extreme adventures, including rappelling, spelunking and body-raft ing trips.
ISLAND FLAVORS
Puerto Rico’s diverse influx of cultures resulted in a traditional cuisine unlike any other. Stop at a local eatery, pull over at a roadside stand or trek to beachside kiosks, and treat yourself to a tour of what has been called the “culinary capital of the Caribbean.” Here are a few island favorites to put on your must-taste list:
COMIDA CRIOLLA
This traditional cuisine is found all over the island in every type of eatery, from tiny fondas (inns) to fine dining rooms. Don’t miss out on the trademark rice and beans, as well as a host of other soul-satisfying recipes that begin with the flavorful sofrito (a blend of herbs and spices that are the heart and soul of many local dishes).
PLANTAINS
This not-quite-as-sweet cousin of the banana is a much-loved staple in Puerto Rican. Look for it baked, or mashed and fried in mofongo, a favorite side dish. When it’s stuffed with meat or seafood, it makes a great main course. Also try tostones (deep-fried and pressed plantain medallions) or have it shredded and fried into little nests called arañitas.
FRITTERS
These deep-fried delicacies are the national finger foods. Don’t miss out on biting into a bacalaito (crunchy codfish fritter) or an empanadilla (crispy turnover filled with meat or seafood).
LECHÓN
Spit-roasted pork is as Puerto Rican as it gets. This delectably seasoned meat is most commonly found in lechoneras (casual roadside eateries clustered in and around the town of Guavate). Also sample arroz con gandules (rice with pigeon peas) and morcilla (spicy black blood sausage).
WEST
It may only be a few hours drive from San Juan, but Puerto Rico’s lush west coast seems worlds away from the hustle and bustle of the metropolitan area. In fact, the region—made up of many charming beachtowns—has such a distinctive ambience that it has earned its own name: Porta del Sol, or “Doorway to the Sun.” With the exception of Mayagüez, which is the only real city in the west, the towns that line the western coast are quaint yet upscale seaside villages that attract people with a love for the great outdoors.
The west side is one of the top surfing destinations in the Americas, and the town of Rincón is definitely the surfing capital of Porta del Sol. Some of the top beaches are Wilderness, Jobos and Surfer’s Beach, where the waves can be especially gnarly during the winter months. But despite the waves, snorkelers and divers also flock to the west to enjoy their sport. Hikers and outdoors-y types will especially enjoy the Guajataca Forest, on the outskirts of Isabela, which has the island’s largest hiking trail system.
There are many charming small inns and beach guesthouses in the west, but in recent years, several high-end luxury resorts have sprung up in Porta de Sol. As a result, it has become a retreat for well-heeled travelers and a magnet for exciting new restaurants.
EAST
Th e main attraction on the east end of the island is El Yunque National Forest (www.elyunque.com), the only tropical rainforest in the US. Th e sprawling 28,000-acre mountainous rainforest laced with cascading waterfalls, gentle rivers and cold pools is a nature lover’s dream. The lush, green tropical forest is also home to hundreds of rare animal species including the colorful Puerto Rican parrot, and an abundance of tropical plants, trees and exotic flowers. The forest has a visitors center with information about the animal and plant life in El Yunque, as well as maps that complement the marked trails.
Las Cabezas de San Juan Nature Reserve (787-722-5882) includes a nature center, an 18th-century lighthouse and trails that highlight the reserve’s many ecosystems. It’s also home to one of Puerto Rico’s three phosphorescent bays where countless tiny undersea creatures light up aft er dark. Th e brightly speckled organisms sparkle like glitter when the water is disturbed, making the kayak journey into the bay a psychedelic trip worth remembering.
The east is also famous for its pristine beaches, especially the palm-tree lined Luquillo Beach. If you only visit one beach on the island, make it this picturesque spot, which can mellow a type-A personality down to a C in one lazy aft ernoon.
OLD SAN JUAN
No trip to Puerto Rico would be complete without a visit to the island’s centuries-old capital city, with its picturesque cobblestone streets, tropical fruit-colored facades, wrought-iron balconies and European archways.
A designated World Heritage Site (along with the pyramids of Egypt and the Great Wall of China), this classic fortress city is home to two massive forts, El Morro and San Cristóbal, both of which are definitely worth a visit.
The Old City is also famous for its fabulous restaurants; there are more than 40 in just seven square blocks. South Fortaleza Street, known as “Sofo,” is the pulse of the dining district. One after another, fabulous and trendy spots line the tiny one-block street where droves of foodies come to get their fix.
Art aficionados also find a little piece of heaven in Old San Juan, which is jammed with museums, galleries and artsy shops. Shopping is plentiful in the charming capital, and a free public trolley that maneuvers the narrow streets helps bargain hunters conveniently make their way around the hilly town.