GALVESTON, TEXAS
PAST PERFECT
BY KARON WARREN
HISTORICAL TREASURES TAKE CENTER STAGE IN THE MODERN CITY OF GALVESTON, TEXAS.
After the great storm of 1900 took more than 6,000 lives and wiped out the majority of Galveston, an island just 50 miles southeast of Houston, nobody would have blamed survivors for simply picking up their belongings and walking away. Instead, those strong-willed souls cleared away the debris and began to rebuild a city they could call home.
Today, visitors can experience a great deal of Galveston’s history and magnificent architecture, thanks to a concerted effort to preserve the hard work of the city’s forefathers.
George P. Mitchell, board chairman and CEO of nearby Houston’s GPM Inc., is responsible for the renovation and restoration of 18 properties throughout Galveston. “I was born [here], and have always had a vital interest in Galveston restorations,” he says. “Galveston has a unique collection of Victorian structures.”
One such architectural treasure is The Grand 1894 Opera House (www.thegrand.com), which survived not only the great storm of 1900, but also a storm in 1915 and two devastating hurricanes.
The repairs and reopening of the building, dubbed “The Official Opera House of Texas,” is a testament to the dedication of the community to preserving its history.
“The Grand was actually restored twice, once after the 1900 storm when it was substantially damaged and then again after it had traveled the typical path of a downtown theater and became a derelict movie theater by 1974,” says Executive Director Maureen Patton.
However, a restoration project began soon after, and The Grand once more reclaimed its rightful spot as a major player in Galveston’s artistic endeavors. “Being the ‘official opera house of Texas’ is an honor for us, but being the jewel in Galveston’s crown is equally so,” Patton says.
Taking the stage this month: Menopause the Musical (Feb. 5-10), The Velveteen Rabbit (Feb. 21) and Movin’ Out (Feb. 23).
The grand architecture of the 1800s is also reflected in Bishop’s Palace (409-762-2475) and Ashton Villa (409-762-3933), both of which showcase the wealth of Galveston’s past citizens.
Bishop’s Palace, with its intricate façade, towers, tall chimneys and heavy ornamentation, embraces late Victorian architecture with all its purposeful irregularities.
Architect Nicholas J. Clayton built the castle-like mansion for Walter Gresham, a prominent lawyer and state government official.
While the exterior, made of Texas granite, white limestone and red sandstone, is magnifi-cent, so, too, is the interior, distinguished by beautiful fire-places scattered around the home. Purchased by Gresham from around the world, the hearths were actually the starting point for many of the rooms’ designs. Other architectural gems are preserved as well (take special note of the dining room chandelier).
Built almost 30 years before Bishop’s Palace, in 1859, Ashton Villa was one of Texas’ first brick mansions. It incorporated many modern conveniences of the day, such as indoor plumbing and “gasolier” lighting. Take a guided tour and see how the family of James Moreau Brown—one of the richest men in Texas at the time—lived as demonstrated by the many heirloom furnishings and paintings by his daughter, Rebecca, known as “Miss Bettie.”
History also asserts itself within the walls of some of Galveston’s most prized structures. On the way to your room, knock on the interior wall of the elevator at The Tremont House (www.wyndham.com; 409-763-0300), and your knock will be returned. And when you’re touring Ashton Villa, there’s a chance you’ll run into Miss Bettie; many claim she still walks the halls.
To confront a ghost head on, reserve Room 501 at Hotel Galvez (www.hotelgalvez.com; 409-765-7721), where the spirit of a seaman’s fiancée, who took her own life after her love died at sea, is said to reside. But she isn’t the hotel’s only haunting. During recent construction on the hotel’s new spa, workers claimed to hear a little girl giggling as she bounced a rubber ball. If you really like to be scared, book a tour led by the hotel concierge.
There’s no denying that ghosts and architectural gems of the past are a part of Galveston’s present, but this is just a small glimpse of what the city has to offer.
“Galveston really offers more than any other city in [Texas] in how it conveys the history of Texas, from founding fathers to maritime history to the works of the state’s first major architects,” says Dwayne Jones, executive director of the Galveston Historical Foundation. “I believe you can come here time and again and never see all the intricacies of the island or learn all its history.”
SET SAIL
The Texas Seaport Museum (www.tsm-elissa.org) is home to the famous 1877 ELISSA, a three-masted, iron-hulled merchant ship built in Aberdeen, Scotland. Rather than just learn about it, play a role in preserving this historical icon of maritime heritage and be a part of the crew when the ELISSA takes to the waters of the Gulf of Mexico for her annual sea trial. Volunteers can attend weekend classes and learn the ropes of 19th-century sailing, from pulling lines and tying knots to navigating the rigging. After 20 classes, you’ll be ready to board the ship.
Even if you don’t volunteer, as a visitor you can still try your hand at tying basic sailing knots, check out log books and look inside the officers’ quarters, which are amazingly small.
Also at the museum, learn about the devastation of the 1900 hurricane in The Great Storm, a haunting documentary that eerily echoes the more recent stories of Hurricane Katrina. And look for a family member in the immigration database, which contains information on more than 133,000 immigrants who entered the US via Galveston.
MORE MUST -
VISIT MUSEUMS:
OCEAN STAR OFFSHORE DRILLING RIG & MUSEUM
Get a firsthand look at a real drilling rig and learn how oil and gas are harvested from the sea. Also check out informative exhibits, interactive displays and videos.
GALVESTON RAILROAD MUSEUM
Auto lovers will excitedly roam through a variety of train cars, including dining, mail and private cars. The museum also contains a wonderful display of model trains, plus the largest railroad dining china exhibit in the country.
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