NEW ORLEANS
WHAT’S OLD IS NEW
REDISCOVER CRESCENT CITY HAUNTS, WHERE THE LOCALS WILL WELCOME YOU WITH OPEN ARMS.
BY JOHN HOPKINSON
It’s common for New Orleans tourists to spend the majority of their time in the French Quarter or Central Business District—sometimes not even venturing far from Bourbon Street. Well, that is a shame, because the entire city is filled with an equally authentic set of diversions founded on a passion for food, music and having an all-around great time.
The magic of New Orleans resides in its people. The gumbo of ethnicities thrown together over generations has produced a unique culture.
What is so great about visiting New Orleans is the chance for travelers to follow Bob Dylan’s lead and live vicariously through its people. With this spirit in mind, here are places where the citizens of New Orleans congregate. Go mingle with the people that make the city such an exciting place to be.
CHOW DOWN
For a wild fusion of Southern and Creole cooking, head to the Uptown haunt Jacques-Imo’s Café (www.jacquesimoscafe.com; 504-861-0886). As close to dining in a swamp as you’ll likely ever come, its funky atmosphere is outdone only by its tasty menu of outrageous items like Cajun bouillabaisse, deep-fried roast beef po’boy, and shrimp and alligator sausage cheesecake.
Come prepared to have a good time and for a long wait; groups of five or more can make reservations, which is a definite coup.
For an authentic French bistro experience as well as the best crêpes in town, try La Crêpe Nanou (www.lacrepenanou.com; 504-899-2670). To get there, catch the historic St. Charles Streetcar Line on Canal Street and take it to stop #27. The restaurant is less than two blocks away. In addition to crêpes, other traditional French favorites are served, including cheese fondue and the signature moules frites (mussels with french fries). The atmosphere is romantic yet quite casual. Reservations are not accepted, so plan to have a cocktail at the bar while you wait.
Another fun choice near the St. Charles Streetcar Line is the perfect symbol of this city’s stubborn resistance to change. Looking just as it likely did when it first opened in 1946, The Camellia Grill (504-309-2679) is a classic mid-century-style lunch counter, right down to the round swivel stools attached to the floor. It still serves some of the best burgers in the city as well as other traditional diner offerings. Best for breakfast, lunch or late-night eats, its comfort food is surpassed perhaps only by the quality of the people-watching. The outgoing staff put on what amounts to a free improvisational show for the regulars who consider this a second home.
For a meal that truly epitomizes the culture of New Orleans, visit Dooky Chase’s Restaurant (www.dookychaserestaurant.com; 504-821-0535).
Established in 1941 by Edgar “Dooky” Chase Sr. and his wife, Emily Tennette Chase, it is now run by Dooky Chase Jr. and his wife, Leah, who has earned international acclaim for her Creole cooking. This institution within the black community suffered heavy damage from Hurricane Katrina. The Chase’s lived in a FEMA trailer on the site of the eatery, overseeing the extensive, now-completed renovations. Taste the famous Creole gumbo, which inspired Ray Charles to write “Early in the Morning.” (“Went to Dooky Chase to get something to eat. Waiter looked at me and said, ‘You sure look beat.”) Almost as famous as Leah’s cooking is the collection of African-American art that adorns the walls.
BOOGIE DOWN
One of the city’s most renowned music clubs is the famed Maple Leaf Bar (504-866-9359) in Uptown. Packing them in seven nights a week, the club features all the styles New Orleans is famous for—from blues, funk and R&B to rock, zydeco and jam bands. The crowd is as eclectic as the performers. Maple Leaf Bar hosted what is widely considered to be the first live show in the city post-Katrina on September 30, 2005. The gig, eventually shut down by police and National Guard because the city was still under curfew, marked the symbolic start of New Orleans’ long recovery.
Another excellent spot to see the best local talent the city has to offer is at Snug Harbor Jazz Bistro (www.snugjazz.com; 504-949-0696), located in the Faubourg Marigny section of town, just down the river from the French Quarter. Most Friday nights you can see Ellis Marsalis, father of Wynton and Branford, play the piano. Mondays often feature the incredible vocals of Charmaine Neville, related to the famed Neville Brothers.
Just down the street is another one of the city’s hottest spots for music. You might not guess it from the outside, but The Spotted Cat Cocktail Lounge (504-943-3887) is a cozy, rustic joint that features some of the best local jazz bands every night of the week. Rarely is there a cover charge at The Spotted Cat, where, if you’re lucky, you can grab a chair by the window and enjoy great people-watching while listening to the music. Most Mondays and Fridays feature the excellent New Orleans Jazz Vipers, a seven-piece swing band that plays traditional jazz favorites.
If you want some bowling to go with your music, head to Mid City Lanes Rock & Bowl (www.rockandbowl.com) Tuesday through Saturday nights. Developed and run by the Blancher family for the past 20 years, Mid City Lanes has become one of the hottest spots for local bands to play while the pins are flying and the employees are dancing on the bar. Cover charges are rarely more than $10, and the party goes into the wee hours of the morning. Get a lane and try to resist dancing on your way back to your seat after that tough spare.
DRINK UP
Once the sun begins to set, a great choice for cocktail hour is The Victorian Lounge inside The Columns Hotel (www.thecolumns.com; 504-899-9308). In nice weather, the spacious front porch is an ideal spot from which to sip your drink and watch the street cars rumble along. Otherwise, the clubby, dark-milled wood, multiroom indoor bar has lots of big comfy chairs and intimate nooks where you can enjoy a quiet recapping of the day’s events. The exceptional bar staff, lead by Big Mike, will take care of you. On cool winter nights, there is no better place to spend time than by the fire.
For those looking to go out late and come home early (in the morning, that is), F&M Patio Bar (504-895-6784) is the quintessential dive bar that draws students for dancing, drinking and the obligatory cheesy fries. Don’t go before 1am or you may well be there alone, wondering what all the talk is about. Thursdays are especially hopping, as this young crowd can’t wait for the weekend.
The next time you visit the Crescent City, set some time aside to check out where the locals play. You won’t regret it.
BACK ON TRACK
In November, after two years of being out of service, the historic Perley Thomas streetcars once again made their way up and down St. Charles Avenue from the Central Business District to Uptown. The St. Charles Streetcar Line was shut down after Hurricane Katrina, and part of the line was reopened in December 2006. (Buses temporarily replaced the streetcar service in October 2005.) Now, visitors can hop on and traverse St. Charles Avenue and visit many of these spots along the way.
HORSING AROUND
New Orleans was once the epicenter of horse racing in North America, so if you visit in the winter when the track is in session, a trip to the Fair Grounds Race Course & Slots (www.fairgroundsracecourse.com) is tough to beat. In operation since 1872, it offers first-rate thoroughbred racing through March 23. On March 8, fans have a chance to bet on future Triple Crown contenders at the annual Louisiana Derby. The track has the second-longest stretch of any track in the US, so watching your horse fly toward the finish line will definitely get your heart pumping. After the season ends, the Fair Grounds becomes the site of the world-famous Jazz and Heritage Festival the last week of April and first week of May.