Local Sandwiches

SIGNATURE SANDWICHES

Sink your teeth into these iconic classics, as well as their delicious interpretations.

BY PAM GEORGE ILLUSTRATIONS BY ARIEL DUNITZ-JOHNSON

BE IT EVER SO HUMBLE, the local sandwich is the culinary star in cities across America. Local sandwiches are part of the fabric of a community, oft en reflecting a town’s cultural history or ethnicity. Each sandwich has its own story, and visitors travel from far and wide to have a taste. So what’s the appeal? Michael Stern, who wrote the cookbook Roadfood Sandwiches with his wife, Jane, says, “Th e whole gestalt of a sandwich is relaxed, casual and democratic; there’s not a lot of snobbery.”

Owing to the quality of local ingredients and the preparation, it’s hard to duplicate the real thing. Th ese three headliners are not only regional icons, but have also inspired fanciful variations.

The Portland Lobster Roll

THE SCOOP:

The history of the lobster roll—a staple from Maine to Connecticut— revolves around its distinctive New England-style bun, which has flat sides and is open on top. Some say the bun was invented in the early 20th century, when a hot dog vendor ran out and improvised with toasted bread. Lobster rolls gained popularity sometime after World War II, although a Milford, Connecticut, restaurant, Perry’s, was said to have a sign from 1927 to 1977 that read “Home of the Famous Lobster Roll.”

THE DISH:

The secret ingredient is 100% fresh lobster meat, including the knuckle, claw and tail, says Tony Quattrucci, kitchen manager at DiMillo’s Floating Restaurant (www.dimillos. com; 207-772-2216), a former ferry docked in Old Port.

The Lobster Shack at Two Lights (www.lobstershacktwolights.com; 207-799-1677 ) in Cape Elizabeth, just outside Portland, serves lobster rolls two ways, says Martha Porch, whose family has owned the seaside landmark since 1969. The bun is lined with lettuce, packed with lobster meat and topped with a dollop of mayo, or the meat is bathed in warm, drawn butter. (The Lobster Shack will reopen for the season on March 28.)

Portland Lobster Company (www.portlandlobstercompany.com; 207-775-2112) takes a sparer approach. “We keep it very, very basic,” says general manager Ethan Morgan. “We use a little bit of lemon and some butter. No mayonnaise.”

Other local hangouts are Gilbert’s Chowder House (207-871-5636) and Becky’s (www.beckys.com; 207-773-7070).

THE TWIST:

Chefs who tweak the original often ditch the bun in favor of more sophisticated bread.

Eve’s at the Garden (www.portlandharborhotel.com; 207-775-9090), located in the Portland Harbor Hotel, heaps fresh lobster meat on a brioche and tops it with St. André cheese, similar to brie. Want the lobster without the bread? Chef Jeff Landry splashes sweet lobster, shaved fennel, cucumbers and oranges with a white truffle vinaigrette.

A similar route is taken at the Robinhood Free Meetinghouse (www.robinhood-meetinghouse.com; 207-371-2188) in nearby Georgetown, where Chef Michael Gagne replaces the roll with his award-winning 72-layer cream cheese biscuits and adds mango for a refreshing finish.

Black Point Inn (www.black-pointinn.com; 207-883-2500), in Scarborough, uses lemon aioli to create a signature lobster roll. The landmark eatery has also served lobster BLTs with basil aioli. Also try the Thai-inspired dish at dinner; lobster is sautéed with coconut milk, ginger, lemongrass and Thai basil.

THE SCOOP:

Credit for this steak sandwich goes to hot dog vendor Pat Olivieri, who in 1930 put butcher meat on the grill for employees. A cab driver wanted steak instead of a hot dog. “They gave him one, and he said, ‘Guess what? You guys should get rid of the hot dogs and make steak sandwiches.’ And that’s what happened,” says general manager Tommy Francano, who’s been working at Pat’s King of Steaks (www.patskingofsteaks.com; 215-468-1547) for 30 years.

Although Olivieri invented the steak sandwich, Joe Vento of Geno’s Steaks (www.genosteaks.com; 215-389-0659), located across the street, claims to have added the cheese. Whether it’s 3pm or 3am, lines snake along the sidewalk in front of both eateries, open 24 hours, seven days a week. The restaurants, which glitter with neon lights, have been battling for cheesesteak supremacy since 1966, when Vento opened Geno’s. The friendly competition is nonstop.

THE DISH:

Thin slices of rib eye are slapped on the grill. Some restaurants chop the meat on the grill, while others use longer strips. At most Philly steak shops, you can order Cheez Whiz, the original topping, provolone or American. Learn the lingo. Otherwise, you’ll hear “Yo! Hurry it up!” from hungry patrons. “One Whiz wit,” means you want Cheez Whiz and fried onions. “One provolone widout” means you want provolone and no fried onions.

At Jim’s Steaks (www.jimssteaks.com; 877-313-5467), which has three Philadelphia locations, accoutrements include sautéed mushrooms, peppers, lettuce, tomatoes and pizza sauce. Ketchup and hot and sweet peppers are also common.

THE TWIST:

Chefs who want to take the sandwich up a notch play with the meat, cheese and condiments. Cuba Libre’s (www.cubalibrerestaurant.com; 215-627-0666) zesty twist consists of thinly sliced sirloin and skirt steak, Manchego cheese and a fire-roasted pepper medley on Cuban bread.

The cheesesteak BLT at Vesuvio Restaurant (www.vesuvio-online.com; 215-922-8380)—voted “Best Sandwich in America” by “The Today Show”—features sliced filet mignon topped with provolone, sautéed onions, bacon, lettuce and tomato. It’s finished with a sriracha mayonnaise and presented on a ciabatta role.

Barclay Prime’s (www.barclayprime.com; 215-732-7560) $100 “cheesesteak” includes shaved Kobe hanger steak, butter-poached lobster, French black truffles, tallegio cheese and carmelized onions—all piled on a brioche bun. Chef Jim Locascio, who prepares six to 10 sandwiches a night, admits that this variation would horrify a cardiologist. But then, so does the original. And that, many would agree, is what makes both the traditional and the modern versions oh-so good.

The New Orleans Po’boy

THE SCOOP:

The history of this famous sandwich is often debated. The most widely accepted version starts with brothers Clovis and Benjamin Martin, former streetcar drivers who opened a restaurant on St. Claude Avenue in the 1920s. When streetcar drivers went on strike in 1929, the brothers showed their support by creating an inexpensive roast beef sandwich on French bread. When strikers came for their sandwiches, staffers would call out, “Here comes another poor boy!”

THE DISH:

The po’boy repertoire has expanded a lot since 1929. Just check the menu at Johnny’s Po-Boys (504-524-8129) on St. Louis Street, a lunch counter that’s been a fixture since 1950. “It’s all about the bread, which is soft on the inside and crusty on the outside,” says Lori-Beth DeGrusha, Johnny’s granddaughter. (His three sons now run the restaurant.) “We can stuff anything you want inside of it. If we have it, we can put it in there.” Traditionally, a “dressed” po’boy includes shredded lettuce, tomatoes, mayo and pickles. “Just about everybody gets it that way,” DaGrusha says.

Top sellers include slow-cooked roast beef with au jus or fried shrimp. But there’s also soft-shell crab, veal, crab cakes and Johnny’s “special,” a juicy stack of roast beef and grilled ham with American and Swiss cheese. The Judge Bossetta special is a cholesterol-spiking medley of grilled hot and Italian sausage and ground beef blanketed with melted Swiss cheese.

Also check out Crabby Jack’s (504-833-2722) and Parkway Bakery & Tavern (504-482-3047).

THE TWIST:

Since anything goes with a po’boy, it’s easy to glam them up. Dickie Brennan’s Bourbon House Seafood & Oyster Bar (www.bourbonhouse.com; 504-522-0111) tucks oysters Rockefeller into Leidenheimer French bread. Because Brennan also owns a steakhouse on Iberville Street, the roast beef po’boy is top of the line.

Ralph Brennan’s Red Fish Grill (www.redfishgrill.com; 504-598-1200) on Bourbon Street serves distinctive barbecue shrimp po’boys. This is not your typical barbecue sauce. Fried shrimp are kissed with Worcestershire, rosemary, fresh lemon, thyme, butter and white wine.

“It’s a real rich brown butter sauce,” says Sous Chef Mark Martinez. “It’s real nice. It sticks to the mouth.” He also makes a mean barbecue oyster po’boy; flash-fried oysters are tossed with Crystal hot sauce and served with red onions, lettuce, tomatoes and housemade blue cheese dressing. Each sandwich shares its plate with a tousle of onion potato chips.

Baltimore

CRAB CAKE SANDWICH

A patty of blue claw crab meat is made with only a little “filler”— mayo, breadcrumbs and season-ing—to bind the lumps together.

Buffalo

BEEF ON WECK

This sandwich is made with roast beef served on a kummelweck roll—essentially a kaiser roll, topped with pretzel salt and caraway seeds.

Chicago

THE HOT DOG

A Vienna Beef hot dog is cradled in a steamed poppy-seed bun and covered with toppings like mustard, relish, chopped onions, tomato, a kosher-style pickle spear, sport peppers and a dash of celery salt.

Miami & Tampa

THE CUBAN SANDWICH

Both cities are famous for the delicious layers of ham, roast pork, cheese and pickles on sliced Cuban bread.

Pittsburgh

CHIP-CHOPPED HAM SANDWICH

Processed ham is chopped and thinly sliced (or chipped) and sometimes mixed with barbecue sauce.