Gastronome
WHISK(E)Y 101
Warm spirits for cold weather
BY NANCY DAVIDSON
Clear spirits like vodka or gin are great for refreshing summer cocktails, but after the weather turns cool, there’s no better way to warm up than by sipping on brown spirits, liquors that take the color and flavor of the barrels in which they are aged. Pour a shot of whiskey—or what they call a “wee dram” in Scotland—into your glass, add a drop of water and give it a spin to release the aromas. One sip and you’ll feel like you’ve been sitting by a warm fire.
But what’s the difference between Scotch and whiskey? Scotch is a type of whiskey made in Scotland, while whiskey is a category that also includes American rye or bourbon, Canadian whisky or Irish whiskey. (The spelling varies depending on who labels it. Scotch and Canadian types leave out the “e.” American George Dickel spelled it “whisky” to indicate that his liquor was as good as Scotch.) The category applies to any alcoholic spirit made from a fermented mash of grains, then aged in wooden casks. The flavor depends on many variables including the water and choice of grains, usually a combo of corn, rye, wheat or barley. Scotch is made from malted barley, which explains why it is also called malt whiskey.
SINGLE MALT VS. BLENDED
There are two main subcategories of Scotch: single malt and blended. In 1963, Glenfiddich introduced the concept of bottling single malt liquor made from 100% malted barley. Before that, only blended Scotch in which single malts were mixed with other grain spirits was sold. Single malt distillers alter the flavors by changing the variables. They roast or smoke the barley, age them in different kinds of wooden casks—sherry, port and bourbon barrels each impart a different flavor—or age it from 10 to 50 years or longer. Even within a single brand, you’ll find dramatic variations in flavor. But for a dramatic difference, try a wee dram of The Balvenie Doublewood 12 Year Old, which has notes of cinnamon and sherry, followed by a taste of the complex and smoky Ardbeg.
IRISH WHISKEY VS. SCOTCH WHISKY
Irish distillers point out that their liquor isn’t smoky—but not all Scotch is either. The smokiest Scotch whiskies are those made on the isle of Islay, where grains are dried and roasted over peat fires. The vapors from the burning peat gives the final product its fragrant smokiness. But in Speyside, a part of the Scottish Highlands where the majority of single malt distillers are located, little or no peat is used, producing lighter, somewhat sweet, floral or fruity flavors. Also, while Scotch is made from malted barley, Irish single malts are typically made from a combination of malted and unmalted barley. But there is a similarity: Bushmill’s Irish whiskey and Glenfiddich Scotch whisky both credit the local water near their distilleries as the source of their distinctive flavor.
THE TARTAN TODDY
Hot toddies are a great alternative to cocktails when the temperature drops. A steaming cup of fragrant hot cocoa with Kahlúa and a classic hot buttered rum are two familiar options. This recipe from mixologist Jim Meehan of the secretive speakeasy PDT (Please Don’t Tell) in New York City takes a creative turn, combining the notoriously smoky Laphroaig with a mellow chamomile tea.
1 1/2 oz Laphroaig 10 Year Old Single Malt Scotch
3/4 oz St-Germain Elderflower Liqueur
4 oz hot chamomile tea (preferably from www.inpursuitoftea.com)
1 barspoon clover
1/2 oz honey
Add the honey to a heat-proof mug. Pour the tea over the spoon and stir to dissolve. Add Scotch and St-Germain. Garnish with a twist of lemon.