LOS ANGELES
BY BROOKE PORTER
the LIFE of LITTLE TOKYO
VENTURE TO DOWNTOWN LOS ANGELES FOR AN INSIDE LOOK AT THE PAST, PRESENT AND FUTURE OF JAPANESE-AMERICAN CULTURE.
The Japanese-American presence in Los Angeles’ Little Tokyo dates back to 1885, when a sailor known as Charles Kame opened a restaurant on East First Street. As more Japanese immigrated to the area, mostly after 1906, it became a thriving Japanese-American commercial and residential center.
After WWII broke out, however, many of these Japanese-Americans were forced to leave the area for internment camps. After returning later and re-establishing Little Tokyo, the area was once again demolished and redeveloped during a time of massive urban renewal in the ’70s and ’80s. While current important structures were added—Japanese Village Plaza and Weller Court—the construction sadly took historic and cultural treasures with it.
Despite these challenges, many early businesses and churches still stand today, and, with the construction of monuments, museums, a cultural center and more, the traditions of Little Tokyo’s original inhabitants live on.
ALTHOUGH THE HARD times were overcome, they have not been forgotten, and emotions still run deep at the Go for Broke Monument (www.goforbroke.org). Dedicated in 1999, this 40-foot-high granite circle is engraved with the 16,000 names of Japanese-Americans who served in various segregated military units in WWII. Toke Yoshihashi, who served in the 100th Infantry Battalion and volunteers at the monument, vividly recalls fighting in the war as an American against his own Japanese family members. To truly grasp the meaning of the monument, strike up a conversation with Yoshihashi or one of the volunteer veterans; you’ll be surprised how much they remember and how willing they are to tell their stories.
In addition to the monument, Little Tokyo has numerous outdoor sculptures and statues. At the entrance of Onizuka Street is the Friendship Knot by Shinkichi Tajiri. The square knot sculpture symbolizes the “unity between two cultures” and was presented by the Friends of Little Tokyo Arts committee to the City of Los Angeles in 1981. Just down the street is a model of the space shuttle Challenger, in honor of Ellison S. Onizuka, the Japanese-American astronaut who lost his life in the 1986 space shuttle accident.
On the forefront of Little Tokyo’s cultural preservation is the Japanese American Cultural and Community Center (www.jaccc.org), which hosts a variety of visual and performing arts shows, such as theatrical performances, concerts, art exhibits and more.
“I think the issue of cultural neighborhood preservation is really important, especially in the light now where the world seems to be becoming a lot more monotonous,” says Chris Aihara, JACCC executive director. “Japanese culture is so rich and long-standing, and there’s such high interest in it, that there is always going to be broad appeal for what we do.”
The center’s crown jewel—the award-winning James Irvine Garden—is currently undergoing renovations that are scheduled to be completed in spring 2008. The new-and-improved beauty is being reconstructed with help from the original designer, Takeo Uesugi. (Also of note: The center’s one-acre outdoor plaza was designed by the world-famous sculptor and LA native Isamu Noguchi.)
On December 15, the jazz fusion band Hiroshima will be performing during the annual “Spirit of the Season” concert, and opening on January 6 in the center’s George J. Doizaki Gallery is the annual shikishi exhibit. These shikishi, or art boards, will feature artwork based on the theme Hatsu Mukashi (First-Long Ago).
Like the JACC—and just a few blocks away—the Japanese American National Museum (www.janm.org) is committed to preserving the rich heritage of Japanese-Americans. In fact, it is the first museum in the US dedicated to this cause.
Currently on view at JANM through January 6 is “Landscaping America: Beyond the Japanese Garden,” which reveals the personal stories, historical journeys, and creativity and community processes that underlie the surface of these traditional gardens. And don’t miss the ongoing exhibit, “Common Ground: The Heart of the Community,” which chronicles 130 years of Japanese-American history, from the early pioneers to World War II to the present through hundreds of objects, documents and photographs.
THERE’S MORE TO Little Tokyo than its remarkable cultural and historical attractions. In a city known for Rodeo Drive and star-studded shops, the area can’t compete with LA’s high-end style havens. What it does have is a variety of shops filled with authentic Asian wares. At Bunkado (www.bunkadogifts.com), for example, you won’t be able to decide which to take home: ornate Japanese fans, beautiful Japanese paper, porcelain sushi sets, traditional sandals or quirky chopsticks. And at Blooming Art Gallery (213-628-8811) in Japanese Village Plaza, explore bamboo wares, wind chimes, teapots and other home goods.
After your shopping bug has been satisfied, quench another desire: the one for something sweet.
Japanese Village Plaza is home to Mikawaya (www.mikawayausa.com), which has been around since 1910. Although it serves a variety of Japanese pastries—or wagashi—its mochi ice cream is a standout. Invented at the store, it comes in flavors like coffee and mango.
Make sure to save room for something from the historic small sweet shop Fugetsu-Do (www.fugetsu-do.com).
One of Little Tokyo’s first businesses, it has been open since 1903. It specializes in mochi, or pounded rice rolled into sticky doughnut-hole-sized balls and filled with sweet red bean paste. Grab a sampling of traditional and modern flavors, ranging from green tea to peanut butter and chocolate.
Fugetsu-do is an important stop not only because of its delicious merchandise, but also for its location: next door to the koban, or police box. While the building is a drop-in center for the LAPD, it’s also an information center (213-613-1911) where you can pick up free publications, area maps and more. Another source of information is the Little Tokyo Business Association website, www.visitlittletokyo.com, which provides a detailed, easy-to-follow, self-guided walking tour.
WHILE EXPLORING LITTLE TOKYO, it’s impossible to ignore the immense growth taking place, including various residential developments. Aihara, for one, supports the revitalization, but worries about how it might affect the community.
“I think what we’re concerned about is maintaining the cultural identity and core of the community, while at the same time realizing that development is really a part of progress,” she says. “So how do we stay in line with development and also maintain our own cultural activity?”
The answer lies in the essence of the area’s culture. “[Little Tokyo] has its own character, and the interest in Japanese and Asian things can expand beyond the Japanese community,” Aihara says. “I think it is a balance of understanding that the community is changing and becoming more diverse [while at the same time] making some effort to protect the neighborhood. It’s not that we’re against progress.”
Tatsuo Mori, publisher of Japan Up!, a magazine about Japanese cuisine and trends, agrees. “Little Tokyo has been revitalized. There are several new condominiums, apartments, restaurants and stores… that are targeting a younger crowd, which is new for the area,” he says in a recent issue of the publication. “As a Japanese person, I am still drawn to Little Tokyo for its temples, history and culture.”
Regardless of your background, you, too, will find yourself attracted to the area in the same way.
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ITADAKIMASU! (LET’S EAT!)
SUSHI GEN
422 E Second St
213-617-0552
Downtown workers rush to this small dining room in a strip mall for its sashimi lunch special, so expect a wait. Aff ordable and ohso-good, it’s no wonder Sushi Gen won “Best Sushi” from Citysearch in 2006.
R23
923 E Second St
www.r23.com; 213-687-7178
Th e sushi is great, and the cooked specialties are perhaps even better. Th e gallery-like space has Gauguin-inspired art and Gehry-designed cardboard chairs.
ZAKURO SHABU SHABU
356 ½ E Second St
213-680-0003
A bit on the pricey side, a meal at this traditional shabu shabu restaurant is worth the extra yen. Th inly sliced meats, vegetables and spices are elegantly presented to diners, who cook them in a pot of boiling water.
EAST MEETS WEST
In this case, it’s by way of Little Tokyo’s East West Players (www.eastwestplayers.org), the nation’s premier Asian-American theater troupe. Since 1965, its shows have blended Eastern and Western movement, costumes, language and music. Taking the main stage February 13 through March 9 is the world premiere of Voices from Okinawa, written by Jon Shirota. It’s a tale of an American graduate student of Okinawan descent who returns to her roots to teach English—and receives an education of her own.