The Really Real OC
BY JILL FERGUS
WHEN YOU THINK OFTHE QUINTESSENTIAL CALIFORNIA WAY OF LIFE, Orange County— also known as the OC—may come pretty close. This sun-kissed county, located halfway between LA and San Diego, has all the elements of the laidback yet glamorous SoCal lifestyle envied all over the world: sparkling beaches, year-round gorgeous weather, sleek yachts, manicured golf courses, and tanned and toned residents. While the popular FOX television show “The OC” introduced a younger generation to the area, it has long been a getaway for celebrities seeking refuge from the artifice of Hollywood, including stars from the Golden Era like John Wayne and Humphrey Bogart.
In the ’60s, hippies and artists flocked here, attracted by the area’s stunning beauty, ragged cliffs along miles of pristine coastline, ecological reserves, deeply carved canyons and a beautiful harbor dotted with picturesque islands. After communities like Newport Beach, the county’s largest coastal city; Laguna Beach, an idyllic spot known for its vibrant arts scene; and Huntington Beach (aka Surf City), home to some of California’s widest beaches, sprang up, the OC’s coastal areas started to be developed in earnest.
Over the past 30 years, Orange County has become one of the wealthiest areas in the United States and a leading technological center. It has the largest Mercedes-Benz dealership in the country, some of the biggest yacht marinas and jaw-dropping mansions that more than a few billionaires (including Warren Buffett) call home. Superstars like Tiger Woods own beachfront property in exclusive communities like Corona del Mar. Even with all its affluence, however, the OC has managed to retain a certain carefree attitude. This bohemian spirit can be found in places like Balboa Island in Newport Harbor, an artistic-minded enclave of charming cottages, pretty beaches fronted by a popular boardwalk, and numerous art galleries and one-of-a-kind shops. Except for Starbucks, chain stores are conspicuously absent.
This vibe is also found in the area’s numerous natural attractions, including Crystal Cove State Park (www.crystalcovestatepark.com). This 2,791-acre state beach boasts more than three miles of beaches, secluded coves, ragged cliffs and undeveloped woodlands. There are backcountry trails where you can hike, mountain bike and go horseback riding, as well as several scenic camping areas. Also scattered about the grounds are rustic cottages overlooking the Pacific—13 of them (ranging from hostel-type dorms to two-bedroom homes) can be rented through Crystal Cove Beach Cottages (www.crystalcovebeachcottages.org). Within Crystal Cove is Beachcomber Café, a funky diner directly on the beach. It’s known for breakfast—strong coffee and hearty omelets, pancakes and French toast served on colorful Fiestaware dishes. At 5pm, the staff raises a martini flag and everyone watches the sun set amid a beach party atmosphere.
While the views from the hilltop of Crystal Cove are indeed spectacular, Newport Beach is best seen from the water and, more specifically, from a Duffy Boat (www.duffynewportbeach.com). These tiny little electric boats, which can be seen traveling up and down the harbor all day long, are almost laughably small and Spartan compared to the mega yachts that surround them—but they are a cherished Newport tradition. Drive yourself or, better yet, have a staff member on board to steer and point out the fabulous mansions. You’ll see John Wayne’s former boat, which has been refurbished and is available for charter cruises. (Wayne lived in Newport, and his presence still looms large.)
After spending time on the water, “putt putt” your Duffy to the Balboa Bay Club & Resort (www.balboabayclub.com), one of the hubs of Newport Beach. Although it’s still a private club, it has a posh 132-room hotel overlooking the yacht-lined marina. Soak up the atmosphere at Duke’s Place, a bustling bar named for Wayne. The martinis are the best in town, and there’s nightly jazz. If a satisfying meal is what you’re after, the menu at the First Cabin Restaurant features items like macadamia nut-crusted mahi mahi.
While the yacht club has an Old World appeal, the OC has plenty of cosmopolitan restaurants like Ten Asian Bistro (www.tenrestaurantgroup.com) with a towering Buddha statue and haute Asian cuisine. Bluefin (www.bluefinbyabe.com) serves some of the city’s best sushi, while the Rusty Pelican (www.rustypelican.com), a Newport Beach institution, is the place to go for a casual meal—the waterfront setting is hard to beat.
You can also have a drink at The Island Hotel (www.theislandhotel.com), one of Newport’s best-known hotels. It was recently renovated, and many of its 295 rooms boast terraces overlooking the harbor. The hotel’s Palm Terrace Restaurant and Lounge is helmed by Bill Bracken, formerly of The Peninsula Beverly Hills. After relaxing by the pool or enjoying a drink by the outdoor fire pit, unwind in the spa. It’s the perfect way to cap off another day in the idyllic OC—a place that truly embodies the essence of California.
THE COUNTY’S CULTURE
When you’re not lounging on the beach or cruising the picturesque streets, check out these additional activities that’ll keep you busy.
ORANGE COUNTY PERFORMING ARTS CENTER
This Cesar Pelli-designed space is ground zero for performing arts in the OC. In cavernous Segerstrom Hall, catch a Broadway musical, a world-class dance performance or an opera. In the more intimate Samueli Theater, see cabaret and jazz. And in the Renée and Henry Segerstrom Concert Hall, listen to the esteemed Pacific Symphony.
www.ocpac.org
ORANGE COUNTY MUSEUM OF ART
OCMA’s collection features more than 3,000 works with a focus on modern and contemporary art, including everything from paintings, sculpture and photography to video, digital and installation art. Past exhibitions have included works by Jeff Koons, Edward Ruscha and Jackson Pollock.
www.ocma.net
MISSION SAN JUAN CAPISTRANO
Considered to be the birthplace of Orange County, this mission was founded by Spanish missionaries in 1776 as the seventh of 21 missions statewide. Visitors can roam the complex, which includes tiny Serra Chapel, one of the oldest churches in California, as well as 10 acres of gardens and fountains.
www.missionsjc.com