Gastronome

SHAKE IT UP

This summer, cool down with a spiked milkshake.

What could taste better than the combination of ice cream, soda, flavored syrup and the addition of alcohol or coffee? Not much, to be honest. And lately, it seems that many restaurants would agree, finding room for innovative, tasty floats and shakes on their menus.

There is a whole menu of spiked milkshakes at BLT Burger (www.bltburger.com), including “The Go-Go,” with Kahlua, Bailey’s, espresso and coffee ice cream; “The Shocker,” a blend of Stoli Vanil, Oreos and vanilla ice cream; and “Peaches & Cream,” a smooth mix of vanilla ice cream, Absolut Apeach, peach schnapps, whipping cream and peaches.

There’s also an Italian tradition of frosty and fizzy libations. At A Voce (www.avocerestaurant.com), chef Andrew Carmellini has created his version of the traditional frosty and fizzy scropino, a combination of lemon sorbet, vodka and prosecco, typically served on the beaches of Sardinia.

At Chicago’s Custom House (www.customhouse.cc), pastry chef Elissa Narow has whipped up several concoctions for the summer menu, including a mint julep ice cream soda, made with homemade bourbon ice cream, and served with bourbon pecan sandies on the side.

Two restaurants in Washington, DC, have modifed the traditional root beer float. At Café Atlántico (www.cafeatlantico.com), Chef Katsuya Fukushima created a variety of special floats. His menu blends the flavors of Central and South America, including his dessert drinks. The Calimocho Float, for example, is made with red wine sorbet and Mexican cola, while another option blends Negra Modelo beer with chocolate ice cream. The menu at PS 7 (www.ps7restaurant.com) includes its own take on the float as well. Chef Peter Smith combines sassafras extract, rum and tonka bean (a legume with aromas of vanilla, clove and cinnamon) ice cream.

To assemble your own creative concoction, pour any kind of carbonated beverage over ice cream (or sorbet). You can even use beer instead of soda; in fact, richly flavored stout is particularly good with vanilla ice cream. One to try: Old Engine Oil, a dark, rich stout with aromas of chocolate and cherry.
—Nancy Davidson

THE HUCKLEBERRY CHEESESHAKE

2 scoops vanilla ice cream
2 tbsp blackberry preserves
2 oz whipped cream cheese
1/4 cup whole milk
1 oz 44 North huckleberry-infused vodka
1/2 oz blackberry brandy
2 fresh blackberries

Blend ice cream, 1 tablespoon of blackberry preserve, milk, vodka and brandy in blender. Place other half of preserve in bottom of glass. Fill glass with shake. Garnish with whipped cream and fresh blackberries.
—Courtesy of BLT Burger