French Influence

Bonjour St. Louis

French influence lives on in neighborhoods e attractions that preserve this remarkable midwestern city’s rich

BY BROOKE PORTER

In 1763, Pierre Laclede, a partner in a French trading firm, left New Orleans with his stepson Auguste Chouteau in search of a site for a new trading post. Th ey arrived at the west bank of the Mississippi River—and St. Louis was born. Named aft er King Louis IX, this fur-trading village was the last French settlement of the New World.

According to historian Bob Moore, St. Louis had approximately 1,000 to 1,500 inhabitants at that time, a much smaller number than those of the surrounding French settlements of Cahokia, Ste. Genevieve, Kaskaskia and Fort de Chartres. “St. Louis survived and thrived and became a city because they were interested in expanding the fur trade,” Moore says, whereas the other communities were not as economically driven.

Th e land remained under French control until 1768, when it was ceded to Spain. In 1800, Napoleon signed the secret Treaty of San Ildefonso, which transferred the land back to France. Just three years later, the French sold about 5.3 million acres to the US in the Louisiana Purchase, doubling the size of the country overnight. It was a long time before the earlier settlers were outnumbered; official documents from the 1830s were still written in French.

Today, the area along the Mississippi where Laclede landed still retains a bit of French history. Th e Basilica of St. Louis, King of France, more commonly known as the Old Cathedral, is the oldest cathedral west of the Mississippi, and lies on the same plot of land where St. Louis’ first church was built in 1764. Th e cathedral, which is open to the public and still holds mass, also houses a museum.

Just across the street, go back in history at the domed Old Courthouse, which features remarkable dioramas depicting French Colonial architecture and dress style of the original St. Louisians. (Added trivia: Its dome was used as the model for the US Capitol building. It was also the site of the first two trials of the pivotal Dred Scott slavery case in 1847 and 1850.)

Although this area is rich in French architecture, St. Louis did not hesitate to embrace modern structures, most notably the 630-feet-tall, stainless steel Gateway Arch. Completed in 1965, the arch is also home to the Museum of Westward Expansion, located underneath the massive structure. Aft er soaking in 100 years of history, from the fur trade to Lewis and Clark’s expedition, check your fear of heights at the door and cruise to the top of the arch for a stunning view of the mighty Mississippi and its surrounding areas.

The French influence is still seen in many St. Louis neighborhoods. Named for the city’s founder, Laclede’s Landing entertainment district is a nine-square-block, cobble-stoned area of warehouses-turned-nightclubs, bars and restaurants. A few places to try: Th e Royal Dumpe, the nation’s longest-running dinner theater (www.royaldumpe.com);

Th e Big Bang dueling piano bar (www..thebigbangbar.com); and Laughs on the Landing, an improv comedy club (www..laughsonthelanding.com).

Th e charming and very European Central West End neighborhood—or CWE, as the locals call it—is filled with quaint sidewalk cafés, antique shops, boutiques and pubs. Wander the tree-lined streets and you’ll happen upon the historical treasure of Bissinger’s (www..bissingers.com), one of the last handcraft ed chocolatiers in the world. Th e Bissinger family began creating their crème de la crème chocolate confections in 17th-century Paris; even nobles like King Louis XIV and Napoleon were loyal fans. In 1845, Karl Bissinger brought his candy-making secrets to the US, settling near Cincinnati. About 80 years later, his son opened the St. Louis shop, which still stands today with its original furniture, chandeliers and refrigeration units.

Aft er eating dessert first, make room for a meal at Chez Leon (www..chezleon.com) for a true taste of St. Louis’ heritage. Th e Paris-style bistro has an ever-evolving menu of authentic French cuisine.

CWE is anchored by the Cathedral Basilica of St. Louis, also known as the New Cathedral. Built in 1907, the church boasts one of the largest collections of mosaics in the world, covering 83,000 square feet. More than 20 artists helped create the awe-inspiring ceiling, which contains a mind-boggling 41.5 million pieces of glass tessare in 8,000 diff erent colors. Th e sparkling mosaic depicts the story of the Catholic faith as well as the life of Saint Louis IX.

Soulard, St. Louis’ oldest neighborhood, is known for its brick row houses, blues clubs and the historic Soulard Farmers Market (www..soulardmarket.com). Founded in 1779 by early French resident Gabriel Cerre, it’s the oldest farmers market in the country. Th e area celebrates its French heritage every year with the biggest Mardi Gras celebration outside New Orleans, and Bastille Day in July. Located within the Soulard Historical District is the Chatillon-DeMenil mansion. Open for tours, it sits on land that was purchased by Odile Delor, the widowed granddaughter of the French-born founder of nearby town Carondelet.

Th ere’s no better way to experience the past than by touching it, tasting it and seeing it with your own eyes, and St. Louis has done a remarkable job of preserving its rich French heritage. Bon voyage!

VOILA! VOILA!

For a taste of French art, gardens, history and architecture, don’t miss these attractions.

SAINT LOUIS ART MUSEUM
Organized by the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, Paris, and the American Federation of Arts, New York, “Symbols of Power: Napoleon and the Art of the Empire Style, 1800-1815” opens June 17. Drawing extensively from French collections, the exhibition includes more than 140 extraordinary works of decorative arts, including furniture, silver, porcelain, jewelry, clothing and textiles—many of which have never been on view outside France. www.slam.org

MISSOURI BOTANICAL GARDEN
Europe introduced boxwood to North America in the mid-1600s, and the Blanke Boxwood Garden displays an outstanding collection of this slow-growing evergreen foliage. Considered one of the top three botanical gardens in the world, the 79 acres of breathtaking horticulture also include a 14-acre Japanese garden, an interactive children’s garden and the Climatron, the world’s first geodesic dome greenhouse. www.mobot.org

MISSOURI HISTORY MUSEUM
Opening in October, “Jamestown, Quebec and Sante Fe: Three North American Beginnings” focuses on the cultural impacts the French, Spanish and English had on the US and St. Louis. On permanent view is “Seeking St. Louis,” an interactive exhibition that tells the story of the region from its earliest times to the present—featured in two interactive galleries with thousands of artifacts. www.mohistory.org

UNION STATION
By 1909, this was the busiest railway terminal in the world. Today, Union Station, with architecture inspired by the walled city of Carcassonne in France, is home to restaurants, specialty shops and entertainment venues. Must-sees include the famous Whispering Arch, an architectural phenomenon, and the Allegorical Window. Made out of Tiffany glass, it depicts the three largest train stations in the US at the time—located in San Francisco, St. Louis and New York. www.stlouisunionstation.com