Georgia Wineries
The Hills are alive with the sound of pouring Wine In the past decade, the North Georgia wine industry has gone through an extravagant expansion.
Words by Lincoln S. Bates
North Georgia has experienced an explosion of vines, and we’re not talking kudzu. Small wineries, like those in western Virginia and North Carolina, have cropped up across the vertical terrain. Some have already evolved to the second generation. What’s more, farm wineries can now sell on Sundays, a departure from Georgia’s otherwise dry Sabbath. Take a tour of wineries that show off some of what the region has to offer.
The hills and streams around Lumpkin County, about an hour north of Atlanta, once glittered with gold—the region witnessed the nation’s first major gold rush 175 years ago. Today, another kind of gold glistens here—fruit of the vine and good-quality wines. Four boutique wineries producing an array of reds and whites lie within 40 minutes of Dahlonega, the county seat.
At Wolf Mountain Vineyards and Winery (www..wolfmountainvineyards.com), you might see a rally of antique autos, catch some jazz, or just
dally on the deck, which overlooks the vineyard and features views of the Blue Ridge Mountains. The winery reflects a rustic elegance and specializes in Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Mourvedre. Don’t miss the excellent white Chanteloup or the red Coupage.
Frogtown Cellars (www.frogtownwine.com)
sits at the foot of the Appalachian Mountains and takes its name from Lumpkin County’s Frogtown District. Since launching in 1998, it has produced a dozen or so wines, including Tannat and Viognier. Among its most interesting labels are Vineaux Rose, red Propaganda and white Inclination. An inviting deck at the estate provides the perfect spot to relax and view the lovely landscapes with glass in hand.
Next door is Three Sisters Vineyards and Winery (www.threesistersvineyards.com), owned and operated by a couple who left their broadcasting and marketing careers to pursue viticulture in the mid-1990s. They cultivate the family farm image right down to their blue denim coveralls and produce some 4,000 cases annually. Wines range from Pinot Noir to Pinot Blanc. One of the best flavors this family produces is found in the reserve Chardonnay. In June, the winery will host the annual Georgia Wine Country Festival.
Farther down Town Creek Road lies BlackStock Vineyards and Winery (www..bsvw.com), one of the pioneers of Georgia wine. Formally trained grape grower and winemaker David Harris and wife Trish opened the winery and tasting room last year to acquaint visitors with the fine wines from their vineyards, such as a rich and mellow reserve Chardonnay, a spicy reserve Viognier and the limited production ACE—named after their children Austin, Chandler and Eliza.
A family-friendly destination, BlackStock Vineyards offers guided tours of the grounds as well as live music on the weekends, barbecues and this year’s second annual Easter Egg Hunt.
Another wine journey takes you to Clayton, located near the Chattooga River and the spectacular Tallulah Gorge. The town of Tiger, home to Tiger Mountain Vineyards (www..tigerwine.com), can be found next door. A joint effort of an attorney and a physician, Tiger Mountain boasts nine wines, with an emphasis on reds such as Cabernet Franc, Norton and Malbec; its best-seller is the Rabun Red. Join the tasters club and enjoy discounts as well as entry to wine-release parties, the annual Harvest Party and the tuneful “Awakening of the Vines” picnic in spring.
A few minutes west, above Lake Burton, you’ll find Persimmon Creek Vineyards (www.persimmoncreekwine.com), a boutique winery launched a few years ago (although the land was purchased in August of 2000). The winery puts out 2,000 cases of Seyval Blanc, Riesling, Merlot and Cabernet Franc; its private reserve Riesling is one of the vineyard’s top offerings.
About 40 miles northwest from Tiger, you’ll find the town of Young Harris and the charming Appalachian country farmhouse that’s home to Crane Creek Vineyards (www.cranecreekvineyards. com), where 2,700 to 4,000 cases are produced each year. Among the most notable wines are Enotah White and Brasstown Mountain Claret. The latter is a blended, light-bodied red with intimations of Chianti from the addition of Sangiovese.
Jasper, about an hour northwest of Atlanta, is home to one of the region’s smallest and newest wineries, Sharp Mountain Vineyards (www..sharpmountainvineyards.net). Its acreage unfolds beneath an eponymous peak studded with new upscale housing.
The couple who owns the winery does everything from planting and pruning vines and pressing grapes to bottling and affixing labels. They recently constructed a small tasting room and are building a pavilion for picnics. Sharp Mountain produces about 7,000 bottles yearly.
Try the smooth, non-oaky Chardonnay reserve, the Bordeaux-like ripe red Collage, and, if you’re lucky enough to find it, the off-dry Gerwurztraminer.
Some winemakers and aficionados liken the North Georgia area to California’s Napa Valley of 30 to 40 years ago, with new vineyards growing all around—look for Serenity Cellars (www.serenitycellars. com), near Helen, to open this summer.
While 300 wineries call modern-day Napa home, with 10 new vineyards in this area, a plot has definitely been ploughed.