Sushi Sampler

words by > Tony Ware

*Slicing through the nation’s top sushi experiences

NEW YORK

Masa
This serene, almost temple-like stage for LA-transplant Masayoshi Takayama, located in the Time Warner Center, has been inspiring diners to sing its praises since opening in 2004. Having garnered a Michelin Two Star rating, Masa’s 26 seats are fi ercely coveted, despite the single option of an ingredient-driven omakase ($400 not including beverages, tax or tip). Admission guarantees reverent, multi-dimensional nourishment liberally dotted with luxurious accoutrements (Kobe beef, caviar, etc.). For a less exorbitant sampling of fusion-informed entrees, try the adjacent, à la carte Bar Masa. www.masanyc.com

Sushi of Gari
At Sushi of Gari, diners should prepare to expect the unexpected from Masatoshi “Gari” Sugio, whose fi nest off erings (some are off -menu, so highly consider a chef’s choice) feature ingeniously conceived fl avor complements. Th e only sauce not recommended at Sushi of Gari’s three locations—Upper East Side, Upper West Side and the Th eater District’s Restaurant Row—is soy sauce, but with such scintillating and creative treatments, who needs it? www.sushiofgari.com

Sushi Yasuda
Dining at Sushi Yasuda is a study in precision. Th e minimalist, blond interior refl ects the proprietors’ intention that nothing is to come between your mouth and the freshest of fi sh but a knife. Th is elegant, austere shrine of chef Naomichi Yasuda is merely the vessel for a transcendental, Tokyo-style journey through the freshest catch fl own in daily. Fish is gently cooked—or seasoned if deemed appropriate—to highlight fi rm to fatty subtleties. www.sushiyasuda.com.

LOS ANGELES

Urasawa
A prix fi xe dinner at this enchanting Beverly Hills high water mark begins at $250 per person and is a fl awless gastronomic experience guided by Hiroyuki Urasawa, a former apprentice of Masayoshi Takayama (Masa). From pristine sashimi to shabu-shabu foie gras, hand-trimmed ginger to bliss-inducing sake, everything is textured, balanced and meticulously paced. Urasawa is impeccable in every season—but especially when cold-water rarities such as blowfi sh are available. 310-247-8939

Matsuhisa
In 1987, this landmark Beverly Hills restaurant opened, and chef Nobu Matsuhisa quickly and indelibly made his mark on the evolution of sushi. Now the Nobu Empire spans three continents, and wherever you taste miso black cod or sashimi with infused oils, you have found its infl uence. Nobu has craft ed so many signatures with international produce that it’s hard to imagine that there is room for them all at this small, casual location—but the cuisine remains sensuous for those who manage to squeeze in. www.nobumatsuhisa.com

SAN FRANCISCO

Sebo
Run by chefs Michael Black and Daniel Dunham, this modern, modestly accented Hayes Valley establishment offers two distinct experiences. Opt for a rich mahogany table in the tranquil avocado setting and enjoy an elegant tradition-informed survey (Americanized rolls are absent). Or put your dining adventure in the gracious chefs’ deft hands at the six-seat bar for vivid, off-menu palate pleasers. Soy sauce, fresh ginger and other garnishes are held back, though available by request, as the chefs intend to respect the integral authenticity of their seasonal nigiri selection. 415-864-2181

Sushi Ran
Inspired by and drawing together Japanese and Pacifi c Rim traditions, Sausalito’s Sushi Ran serves up a spectrum of fl avors, but never haphazardly. A certain formality and laudable consistency must be expected, as Sushi Ran received the coveted Michelin Star designation. There is, however, nothing stuff y about the buoyant, cozy surroundings or the fl irty signatures of executive chef Scott Whitman. Honoring their ingredients’ unblemished fl avors, the two chefs then play with moist pairings, piquant sauces and poised platings. www.sushiran.com

ATLANTA

MF Sushi
MF Sushi (chef/co-owner Chris Kinjo’s nickname is “Magic Fingers”) is located in a contemporary loft /retail complex alongside one of Midtown Atlanta’s main eateries. But from the sleek, lustrous interior and perpetually energetic ambiance—as well as the ocean-fresh à la carte options—you’d believe yourself to be near Malibu or Melrose. A breezy West Coast glamour pairs with buttery morsels in the restaurant (soon to spawn a second location) that has land lovers appreciating freshly grated wasabi and o-toro. www.mfsushibar.com

WASHINGTON, DC

Sushi-Ko
Opened in 1976, this friendly Glover Park institution stands as Washington’s fi rst sushi restaurant and yet remains impossibly fresh. Celebrating a “cuisine of subtraction” within Spartan surroundings, Chef Koji Terano dishes out fi nely detailed standards with ease. But beyond supple, nimbly molded sushi is a wealth of innovative small plates, tempura and robata-style entrees with stylish accents. A menu of fi ne red Burgundies is off ered to highlight the cuisine. www.sushiko.us

PHILADELPHIA

Morimoto
Chef Masaharu Morimoto is instantly recognizable thanks to the Food Network’s Iron Chef series. Within Morimoto’s Philly sanctuary (a second location is in New York’s Meatpacking District) are curvaceous surfaces that support the creative lighting design. Similarly, Morimoto’s ultramodern fare is a fusion of delicate touches and bold fl ourishes. Imaginative sushi is available à la carte or multi-course, while many opt for eight-spice lobster, rock shrimp tempura, zesty desserts and other signatures. www.morimotorestaurant.com

BOSTON

Oishii Sushi Bar
Head over to Chestnut Hill and you may be one of the 13 diners lucky enough to snag a seat at this diminutive establishment. Oishii translates as “delicious,” and this standout, run by a Nobu alumnus, lives up to that name and is worth both the drive and wait. An extensive selection of tangy rolls features market-fresh ingredients and French-fl ecked preparations, while appetizers and hot stone dishes leave lips smacking and fl apping about the depth of fl avors. www.oishiisushi.com

SUSHI101

Be in the know with some sushi terms.

Sushi: Also spelled zushi and meaning “seasoned rice,” this is now a generic term for sashimi, nigiri, maki and temaki (see below).

Nori: Roasted and pressed seaweed

Wasabi: A green, putty-like seasoning freshly ground from a mustard-related root that is lime in color and imparts a desirable flavor rather than mere bite

Sashimi: Sliced raw fish presented without rice, nori, etc.

Nigiri: A bite-sized piece of fish or shellfish atop an equally sized/shaped rice block

Maki: A nori-wrapped cylinder of seafood, short-grain rice (mixed with rice vinegar, sugar and salt) and sometimes julienne vegetables

Temaki: Also called a “hand roll,” sharing the same components as maki, but shaped conically

Omakase: A selection dictated by the chef’s preferences, specialties and freshest produce, without the use of a menu

Toro, Chu-toro, O-toro: Choice cuts of tuna belly, with o-toro being the fattiest, most desirable and most expensive grade

Hamachi: Yellowtail

Unagi: Freshwater eel

Uni: Sea urchin

Ikura: Salmon roe

Masago/Tobiko: Common roe (fish eggs)

Miso: Soybean paste

Kappa-maki: Cucumber roll

Shoyu: Soy sauce

Ponzo: Sauce made with citrus

Gari: Pickled ginger

Ohashi: Chopsticks

DOS & DONTS

Tips to treating yourself to the good stuff!

DO

Sit at the sushi bar whenever possible, observing and requesting items you see that look interesting to you.

Introduce yourself to the sushi chef if dining omakase, and make clear what you prefer without stressing what you dislike.

Eat sashimi before maki, ordering as you go rather than all at once.

Eat maki with your hands, if you like.

Use the hand towel that finer establishments provide in between pieces.

Use fresh wasabi whenever possible.

Share comments, questions and sake with the chef.

DON’T

Eat sushi on Mondays. Traditionally fresh fish is flown in Tuesday through Friday.

Rub your chopsticks together or leave them crossed; these are considered ill omens.

Spear pieces or pry them apart.

Pick up sashimi by hand.

Take a partial bite then place the remainder down; sushi is intended for one bite.

Put wasabi in soy sauce; only a dab is required per piece, applied directly to the fish.

Place sushi in soy sauce rice-first; soy sauce is intended to gently flavor seafood.

Put ginger on pieces of sushi; ginger is intended only as a palate cleanser between pieces.

Pass a piece of sushi with chopsticks, unless they are turned around to the end that has not touched your mouth.