Hudson River Valley
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*Fly to AirTran Airways’ new Newburgh destination and explore New York’s Hudson River Valley for a history lesson like no other.
words by > Sam Polcer
Discovered in 1609 by explorer Henry Hudson aboard his ship the “Half Moon,” the 315-mile Hudson River was, for many of the European colonists who settled in this enchanting area, America’s first river. The history of the 150-mile long valley surrounding the lower part of the river is intrinsically linked to the history of the entire US, and as such it has the largest concentration of nationally recognized Historic Places in the country. Its strategic location played a vital role in the Revolutionary War and in the economic development of the entire Northeast. The magic of its landscape inspired an entire school of painting and enticed the wealthiest of America’s first aristocrats to build opulent country manors and estates. An impressive array of presidents, painters and inventors called it home. In 1996, Congress formed the Hudson River Valley National Heritage Area, because the valley was the “fountainhead of a truly American identity.”
With 89 historic districts and over 1,000 sites listed on the National Register of Historic Places, a trip to the area in search of history hotspots can be overwhelming. Visitors might do well to focus on the Mid-Hudson River Valley for a concentrated dose of everything historical that this quietly glorious region has to offer.
REVOLUTIONARY IDEAS
General George Washington, commander in chief of the Continental Army, moved his headquarters to Newburgh in 1782 and ultimately spent more time in a local field house (at what is now called Washington’s Headquarters State Historic Site) than at any other place during the Revolutionary War. Today, it is open to the public and features a variety of period artifacts. Guided tours are offered regularly throughout the summer months and by appointment during the rest of the year.
A few miles away in Vails Gate, the New Windsor Cantonment State Historic Site is the spot where Washington moved 7,000 troops to spend the last winter of the war. Staff members in period dress show visitors what it was like during wartime, with demonstrations of weapons and camp activities, and the visitor center features a collection of 18th century artillery. It was also at this encampment, among its 600 newly constructed log huts, that General Washington chose a select few brave soldiers to receive a small purple cloth “Badge of Merit” for “unusual gallantry.” Later, in 1932, at the same site, the first Purple Heart medal was awarded to honor soldiers who were wounded or killed in combat. The newly opened National Purple Heart Hall of Honor is open year-round, and includes photographs, films, and a searchable database of all Purple Heart recipients.
Other Revolutionary War sites to check out while you’re in the area include the remains of the 14-acre fortification at Fort Montgomery, the scene of a fierce battle for control of the Hudson; the Senate House in Kingston, where, in 1777, New York’s first Senate convened to set up a new state government in the midst of a British military invasion; and the Stony Point Battlefield, where, armed only with bayonets, the American light infantry captured the fort in the last major battle in the northeastern colonies. Go to www.nysparks.com for information on all of these historic attractions.
OLD SCHOOL
General Washington, after his success in the war, wanted to create a military training academy. It was until after his death, however, that the US Military Academy at West Point was founded in 1802, during the administration of President Thomas Jefferson. It is the oldest military academy in the US, graduating some of the finest military figures in US history—including Grant, Lee, Eisenhower and Schwartzkopf. It is also one of the Hudson Valley’s most popular tourist attractions. The Visitors Center and West Point Museum are open seven days a week, and guided tours of the grounds are available (www.westpointtours.com).
Constitution Island (www.constitutionisland. org) is now a part of West Point, but it is perhaps better known as the spot where an 80-ton “Great Chain” was placed across the Hudson to prevent British ships from advancing upriver. A boat ride to and from the island is included with a guided tour of its Revolutionary War fortifications and the 17-room Warner House, built in 1836.
WATERFRONT PROPERTIES
While many of the significant military sites of the Mid-Hudson River Valley are found on the west side of the river, it is on the eastern shore that some of the earliest members of the American aristocracy built their majestic homes. Many of these palaces are open to the public and some of them are close together, so a visit to several in one day is possible.
The majesty of the untamed natural landscape found along the Hudson inspired a school of painters—known, appropriately enough, as the “Hudson River School”—to depict it in both realistic and idealistic fashion. Frederic Church, who was a part of the movement’s second generation, built a magnificent Persian-style palace called Olana (www.olana.org) in the town of Hudson, and it endures as one of his most beautiful creations.
The historic town of Hyde Park is home to three National Historic Sites, making it a perfect day-trip destination. First, check out Springwood, the birthplace of president Franklin D. Roosevelt and also home to the burial site of the only President elected to four terms. Eleanor Roosevelt was also buried there, but she spent many of her days at Val-Kill, her charming Dutch Colonial cottage sanctuary by a stream on the Roosevelt Estate. Also in Hyde Park is the Vanderbilt Mansion, a prime example of the wealth of the Gilded Age (the period following the Civil War). Guided tours of all three sites are available year-round; visit www..historichydepark.org for more information.
The ruins of Bannerman Castle (www..bannermancastle.org) sit atop an island in the middle of the river, peering up from an overgrowth of vegetation. One might assume that in its heyday, the castle was either a luxurious retreat or a strategic military fortress. It was, in fact, a warehouse for a collection belonging to a wealthy Scot from Brooklyn—Frank Bannerman—who made his fortune buying surplus stocks of government weapons and equipment. After over a century of being closed to the public, it has been reopened. Perhaps the most adventurous way to explore the unique location is to arrive by kayak and take a guided tour; Hudson Valley Outfitters (www.hudsonvalleyoutfitters.com) provides the equipment, lunch, guide and hard hats.
The Native Americans called it Mohicanituk: “the river that flows both ways.” And all along the Hudson River, tourists are able to go backwards in time to see what life was like during the early days of the US. There is one thing that remains unchanged, however: the setting has always been and remains to this day an impressive display of natural beauty.