Rocky’s Philly
ITS A KNOCK OUT!
*Rocky Balboa comes to movie theaters this month, so we take a tour of the hero’s hit town—Philadelphia.
Few fictional characters have captured the spirit of a city better than Rocky Balboa, the South Philly underdog who wins even in defeat. For Rocky, who wears his heart on his boxing glove, it is all about going the distance—in the ring and in life.
words by > Pam George
Over the course of five movies, the city has developed a love affair with the character, created by Sylvester Stallone. In September, thousands of fans flocked to the steps of the Philadelphia Museum of Art (www.philamuseum.org) for the dedication of the Rocky statue, originally commissioned for Rocky III and given to the city.
“Yo, Philly! How you doin’?” Stallone asked the crowd, who enthusiastically responded by chanting,” Rocky! Rocky!”
The ceremony, held on the 30th anniversary of the original Rocky, whetted fans’ appetites for the sixth in the series, Rocky Balboa, in theaters December 22. In what might be the final movie, the boxer-turned-restauranteur is cash-strapped and having family problems. He decides to face off against small-time boxers to earn money. Then, a television show that pits boxers from various eras in virtual matches predicts that Rocky would win a fight against reigning champion Mason “The Line” Dixon. Can the aging ex-champ really take down the younger fighter?
The movie was filmed in Philadelphia, and scenes from it and the preceding movies offer fans plenty of fun destinations to visit in the city. Not only are the settings reminiscent of the city’s favorite fictional hero, but they also deliver a distinctly Philly experience.
To start, stroll or jog along the waterfront at Penn’s Landing (www..pennslandingcorp.com), a route for Rocky’s training runs. Unfurling along the Dela ware River, the area is home to the Festival Pier, the site of city celebrations and excellent restaurants, including the unique dining destination Moshulu (www.moshulu.com). Originally launched in 1904, the Moshulu is the world’s oldest and largest four-masted sailing ship still afloat. Her impressive silhouette is striking at night, when the tiny lights spiraling up the masts sparkle against the inky sky.
Next, head to the Italian Market (www..phillyitalianmarket.com), where vendors in the first Rocky movie encouraged the “Italian Stallion” with his training. The market, which spans about 10 city blocks on Ninth Street, is one of the oldest and largest open-air markets in America. Micali Fish displays whole snapper on ice, and D’Angelo Bros. showcases boar, alligator and rabbit in its front window. On the street, hungry diners line up for Italian pork sandwiches with broccoli raab and provolone cheese.
Many make the trip just to visit DiBruno Bros. (www.dibruno.com), a staple since 1939. Although located in a slender space, the shop holds more than 400 cheeses, as well as high quality oils and vinegars. Tasty samples, such as goat cheese and fragrant balsamic vinegar with bread cubes, are sprinkled throughout the store. At the market’s southern tip rests Philly’s claims to fast-food fame: Pat’s King of Steaks (www..patskingofsteaks.com), which appeared in the original Rocky, and Geno’s Steaks (www..genosteaks.com). Pat Olivieri first invented the steak sandwich in 1930. But Geno’s, which is more gaudily lit than an Atlantic City casino at Christmas, has been battling Pat’s for supremacy since 1966. Both are open 24 hours a day; seven days a week.
Like ordering coffee at Starbucks, you must learn the lingo. Otherwise, you risk getting a “Yo! Hurry it up!” from impatient Philadelphians behind you. “One whiz with” means you want a cheesesteak with Cheez Whiz and fried onions. “One provolone without” means you want a cheesesteak with provolone without fried onions. Don’t make John Kerry’s mistake and ask for Swiss cheese—unless you enjoy being ridiculed. For a more highbrow meal, head to the market’s north end, where Sabrina’s Café (www..sabrinascafe.com) packs them in for brunch. Sample French toast, frittatas and freshly baked breads.
In the first movie of the series, Rocky proposed to Adrian at the Philadelphia Zoo (www.philadelphiazoo.org), which in 1859 was the first zoo in the United States. Set in an elegant 42-acre Victorian garden, the zoo houses more than 1,300 animals, many of which are rare and endangered. Consider the nearly 20 big cats that reside in the new $20 million Bank of America Big Cat Falls exhibit, which includes three puma kittens, three snow leopard cubs and a stunning black jaguar cub.
Hardcore Rocky fans must visit The Legendary Blue Horizon (www..legendarybluehorizon.com), the 1860s-era mansion that is now a famous boxing venue. Along with offering boxing matches, The Blue Horizon is collecting artifacts for the Philadelphia Boxing Museum, also located on the site.
Hardcore or not, Rocky fans should dine at Victor Café (www.victorcafe. com), which serves as Adrian’s, Rocky’s restaurant, in Rocky Balboa. The restaurant resides in a picture-perfect South Philly neighborhood. Brick row homes, many festooned with flower boxes, line the sidewalks, and neighbors call out greetings. The two-story space is dedicated to opera singers, whose portraits and photographs gaze down on diners. Don’t expect the usual red gravy house. Menu items include sautéed chicken livers with pasta, whole bronzino and ravioli packed with porcini mushrooms in a gorgonzola sauce.
At the tinkle of a bell, servers leave their tables to launch into an aria or two. Expect music from Carmen and La Boheme. Adjourn upstairs for an after-dinner drink in the cushy lounge, outfitted with flickering red votives and overstuffed chairs. Don’t eat too much, however. You need to stay lean and mean to make the trip up the steps of the Philadelphia Museum of Art, the requisite destination for any Rocky fan. The steps are so famous that some call them the “Rocky steps.”
Humming “Gonna Fly Now,” you can walk or run up the steps. Then enter the museum, where until December 31, you can enjoy “Tesoros/Treasures/ Tesouros: The Arts in Latin America, 1492-1820,” which spans the centuries from Columbus’s arrival to the emergence of national independence movements.
Back outside, check out Rocky’s 2,000-pound, eight-foot bronze statue at the bottom of the steps. The statue once stood at the top of the stairs, but art elitists poohpoohed it as a “movie prop.” After spending time at a sports complex, it was put in storage. Finally, the statue received approval for a spot on the lawn near the steps.
Much like its movie counterpart, the statue has experienced some hard knocks. Nevertheless, it has emerged triumphant.