Gastronome

Can You Take the Heat?
Get in on the action next time you dine out— and score a table in the kitchen.

words by > Nancy Davidson

EVER notice how the best dinner parties always end up in the kitchen? Though it’s designed to be serviceable and isn’t the most comfortable place to hang out, people nonetheless gravitate toward the place where the host is cooking. Multiply that action by the number of chefs in a restaurant kitchen, and you’ll get the idea of the excitement of dining at the kitchen table at Brennan’s of Houston.

Chef’s tables are an increasingly popular way for restaurant guests to get a behind-the-scenes peek at how their dinner is made, while at the same time enjoying the fruits (as well as the meats, vegetables and desserts) of the chefs’ labors. Designed for intimate groups—the tables, whether situated in the heat of the kitchen or in a private room off to the side—are an ideal space for families or colleagues to gather to celebrate the holidays while enjoying the personal attentions of the chef.

At Brennan’s of Houston (www.brennanshouston.com), owned and operated by the same family as Commander’s Palace in New Orleans, the chef’s table is smack in the middle of the kitchen. There, guests are treated to a multi-course meal featuring 40-year-old classic Cajun specialties, as well as new dishes inspired by local products like Texas peaches and Gulf shrimp. You won’t know what you’ll be eating until the chefs start cooking—the exact menu is a surprise. Sharing is an important part of the experience. “Everyone always wants the classic turtle soup,” said executive chef Randy Evans, “but we have four other soups, so we usually serve at least two,” such as Oyster Rockefeller soup or spicy sweet potato soup. For recipes served at these meals over the years, see Evans’ recently published cookbook, The Kitchen Table.

When each course is served, it’s delivered and explained by the chef who created it. Sometimes, the guests become so immersed in watching the cooking, they have to be practically dragged away from the line to eat their entrees before the food gets cold, according to Evans.

“Some regulars will only eat at the kitchen table,” Evans said. “There’s one group that books a year in advance for Mardi Gras. They keep in touch, ask about the cooks, and start to feel like they’re part of the family.”

For those who want hands-on involvement, Brennan’s of Houston offers the Chef for a Day program, a great holiday gift for the enthusiastic home cook. The honored guest receives a chef’s uniform and a day in the kitchen with Randy Evans, planning the menu and helping with the prep. In the evening, the guest chef can sit down with the other guests or get up and cook.

Other places where the chef will give you special attention:

The Harrison, New York City
(www.theharrison.com)
The lucky Chef for a Day trails with chef Brian Bistrong, helps plan the menu, cooks and then joins his or her group for a special dinner in the private dining room.

Taurus, Atlanta
(www.taurusrestaurant.com)
In a room just off the kitchen, diners watch chef-owner Gary Mennie and his team fire up their wood-grilled bone-in specialties and get a glimpse of the pastry line in action. They watch through a window that provides “one degree of separation from the craziness in the kitchen.”

Studio, Laguna Beach, CA
(www.studiolagunabeach.com)
Designed to look like a private home, guests enter the elegant private dining room through the kitchen and dine on a special tasting menu of Chef Boyce’s light yet profoundly flavorful cuisine, inspired by local ingredients. Impeccable service provides the icing on the cake.