Fort Lauderdale
All Grown Up
Fort Lauderdale might bring back memories of Spring Break—but head back there now and you’ll find it’s maturing right along with you.
word by > Diane Bair and Pamela Wright
Bad news, spring breakers: Fort Lauderdale is getting sophisticated, and a more disc erning crowd is rediscovering the glories of this Sout h Florida beach town.
So, it’s goodbye to scruffy motel rooms and hello to the St. Regis and W Hotel, just two of the posh new properties— and the first in the state of Florida for both—set to open here in the next few months. Even Donald Trump is coming to town with two new developments.
The seaside city also offers classy dining and shopping, as well as outdoor activities that include snorkeling over coral reefs and kayaking through a mangrove marsh. Where else can you take a water bus ride thr ough the canals at sunset? Or a boat tour past the hous e where Sonny and Cher lived when they were “Sonny and Cher?” Here’s a roundup of just a few of the things you’ll fall for in the new, grown-up Fort Lauderdale.
ACTIVITIES
BUTTERFLIES
Home to 5,000 butterflies—about 50 species at any given time— Butterfly World can feel daunting at first. As you wander into the Tropical Rainforest Aviary, they whirl around your head and sometimes land on you. Once you get used to this, though, you can admire the pretty, leafy surroundings and the Technicolor butterflies, some as big as your hand. There’s also an exhibit featuring a bevy of buzzing, gemhued hummingbirds and, indoors, a Bug Zoo full of giant water bugs, wasps and arachnids, including a golden-orb spider that seems to roam the place at will. www.butterflyworld.com
BEACHES
Fort Lauderdale’s beaches (all 23 miles of them) are better now than they used to be, since the city has spent $26 million improving them. There’s plenty of beauty under the water, too. Hook up with a dive boat from Pro Dive (www.prodiveusa.com) and check out the wildly colorful marine life on a 69-mile natural reef system, just a short ride out to sea. The shallow water diving is some of the best on the East Coast (more than 80 wrecks and artificial reefs add to the fun) and the snorkeling couldn’t be finer. Also head to the West Lake Park and the Anne Kolb Nature Center (954-926-2480) to try kayaking through 1,500 acres of mangrove wetlands.
FOOD
FINE DINING
Since his 2003 opening, Johnny Vinczencz has been garnering rave reviews for his innovative touch with fish and game at Johnny V. Check out the lobster/buffalo Surf ‘n’ Turf and other inspired pairings. The red chili venison chop with black venison sausage is a favorite; same goes for the duck confit cakes with mango slaw and salsa berry demi-glace. Keep your eyes peeled for celebrity diners, too. www.johnnyvlasolas.com
GOURMET BURGERS
Oprah Winfrey calls Le Tub one of her favorite South Florida restaurants, and GQ called their burgers the best in America. Le Tub is set in a former Sunoco gas station, decked out with hand-painted bathtubs and cracked commodes. You’ll forgive the interiors when you taste your eight-ounce sirloin burger, though. It’s gourmet heaven on a bun. 954-921-9425
SHOPPING
You could get lost for days in Sawgrass Mills, billed as the world’s largest discount and entertainment mall. For luxury brands at a discount, follow Fort Lauderdale’s fashionistas to the Colonnade Outlets in the mall, home to Hugo Boss, David Yurman, Kate Spade and other designer names. Tip: bribe kids to make nice while you shop with a visit to Wannado City, a career-themed theme park located at the mall. www.sawgrassmills.com www.wannadocity.com
GETTING AROUND
WATER
There are buses, and then there’s the Water Bus, which takes the scenic route via the Intracoastal Waterway and the New River. Fort Lauderdale, with its 300 miles of navigable waterways, has been called “the Venice of America.” A cool cruise past opulent waterfront mansions and mega-yachts brings you to Las Olas Boulevard and other downtown hotspots. www.watertaxi.com/ftlaud
WALKING
The Las Olas district is the lively heart of Fort Lauderdale, spanning from the Museum of Art all the way to Route A1A and the beach. Mediterranean architecture and cobbled sidewalks are fringed with palms and shade trees; you can stroll for 15 blocks or so and not run out of chic shops, galleries and bistros. Don’t miss nationally-known O’Hara’s Jazz Café. Buy some African art, cool shoes, or a Key lime martini—it’s all here. www.lasolasboulevard.com