Rafting in Colorado

Whitewater Rafting

words by > Alex Miller

The Giant Flume Ride

In Colorado, we pray for snow all winter, then happily watch it melt in spring for one simple reason: rafting season. While parts of southern Colorado didn’t have such t winter, the central and northern mountains received a bumper crop of the white stuff, which warmer weather translated into plenty of blue stuff for the state’s many rafting rivers.

Beyond the amount of snow up on the mountains, the quality of the rafting season also depends a good deal on the high country having what most would consider to be crummy spring weather. While those who live there in the off-season may curse the cold days and wet snowstorms of April, May and even June, for rafters, anything that holds the snow longer is a good thing.

“The cold spells slow it down, and we’re looking to have a better year than last year,” says Scott Peterson, who operates River Runners (www.whitewater.net

) in Buena Vista, two hours west of Denver. “Longevity of the season is what we’re looking for—a steady pace from Memorial Day through August 15.”

Colorado’s rafting season often runs well into the summer and, in some places, the fall. Snowpack has much to do with it, but location can mean a lot, too. The Dolores, a stunningly beautiful river in southwest Colorado, is typically only raftable for a few weeks each year, while the Arkansas River is runnable from lat e April into September. The Colorado River below Glenwood Springs happens to be governed by a senior water right held by the power plant at Shoshone, so rafters there are kept happy even in low-water years.

But just as most skiers don’t need five feet of new snow to have a good time, the average day-rafter needs only enough water to move the boat at a decent clip to enjoy the sensation of being on the river.

Something wild

I still recall my first river raft trip in Colorado, taken on my first visit to the state when I was 12. I’ve done a few more since then, but the initial experience is so surprising that it tends to be the one that stays with people.

That’s because we’re used to the way theme parks present such experiences: a dollop of perceived risk in an otherwise safe, sanitized package. That’s not to say the ol’ flume ride isn’t fun, but getting out on a bona fide wild river is another thing entirely.

“People go because they want the unexpected,” says Kevin Schneider, who runs the Colorado River with his company Rock Gardens Rafting (www.rockgardens.com). “You’re dealing with Mother Nature, and risk is part of that adventure.” Raft guides go through plenty of training to make it as safe as possible, but yes, you can be tossed out of the raft. Mostly, though, this kind of thing occurs earlier in the season and on wilder stretches of river.

Rafting isn’t a one-size-fitsall proposition—with so many to choose from, it’s simple to opt for a section of river that fits the needs of a particular group or family. With grandma or junior coming along, you may want to choose from the many calmer stretches for what are typically called “float trips.” For a bunch of athletic 20-somethings, whitewater is the call, and there’s plenty of that, too.

The top destination for those looking for a genuine thrill ride is the Browns Canyon section of the Arkansas. Located in Chaffee County, two hours from Denver, Browns Canyon is uniquely suited for whitewater rafting. Peterson explains it’s due to the way the river is configured.

“What makes it both fun and safe is its drop-pool sections,” he says. “We have rowdy, Class 5 sections where you don’t want to fall out of the boat. But if you do, there’s a pool after just about every rapid, so it’s not that scary.”

In other words, if you do get dumped out, before long the river will deposit you in a section of calm water, where y ou can swim to the bank or the boat. “Safety-wise, we can take almost anyone down that stretch of river,” Peterson says.

Back to nature

Besides the visceral kick one gets from being on the river, there’s another aspect to river rafting—the part that’s missing from that water-park flume ride. Rivers are far removed from the world of man, and even those that happen to flow next to highways seem to exist in another realm. “In a very short time, you really feel like you’re away from it all,” Peterson says. Dave Koslo of Rocky Mountain Adventures (www.shoprma.com) adds that people are often surprised by how different and big the river looks when you’re in it, as opposed to viewing it from above. “The wave in the face is surprising to people,” Koslo says. “When you’re sitting face-to-face with that wave, you see how big and powerful that river is.”

And then there’s the scenery. On float trips especially, the most powerful sensation is just realizing where you are and taking in the natural world around you. “You’re on a river, and things naturally happen,” Koslo says. “You see wildlife, and the vistas are spectacular.”

But there are some drawbacks. As Koslo notes, people are often taken off guard by the vast difference between the air versus the water temperature. Remember, that’s melted snow, and a shot of it in the face or lap can chill you quick, even on an 80-degree day. It’s even more of a factor with rivers that go through canyons, where the sun may be blocked.

In July and August, the water temperature has come up to the point where, for the most part, rafters don’t need to wear wetsuits, as they do earlier in the season. Even so, it’s a good idea to bring a windbreaker and some dry clothes. Old sneakers or waterproof sandals like Tevas are a must, since you don’t want to raft in bare feet. Sunscreen, of course, and hats and sunglasses with ret ainers are also essentials. But, as Koslo says, be prepared to donate your hat to the river. “Don’t bring your best Sunday bonnet,” he jokes.

First-timers will need to spend some time in the “put-in” area, while guides get the rafts and gear ready. They’ll give you a fairly intensive safety and informational talk, then walk you through your gear. Everyone gets a helmet, life vest and paddle, with wetsuit optional.

“I think people are often impressed by what it takes to go rafting,” Peterson says. “The booties, the spray jacket, paddle, helmet, the boat, the wetsuit ….” On the other hand, he says, it doesn’t take any special skill or talent to go, and half-day trips from some outfitters start at just $25— and that includes just about everything.

“It’s fun, it’s exciting,” Peterson says. “It’s just a wonderful family activity.”

For a list of Colorado’s rafting guides and rivers, log onto www.croa.org