On the waterfront
Why settle for the same old visitor routes? Paddle out for a different view of these five cities.
Seeing a city from the water is to witness its hidden beauty and unexplored liquid depths. It’s gazing upwards at the Golden Gate Bridge’s reddish struts and taking in a glorious sunset reflected on the waves around you. It’s exploring the shores of Catalina, the island off Los Angeles, rather than the freeways or film studios. It’s enjoying the Boston skyline from the busy Charles River or meandering along a quiet hardwood-edged creek outside of Dallas.
Have we whetted your appetite for getting wet? Then find out how to get on the water in some favorite destinations.
San Francisco
Ted Choi, who started City Kayak in 2003 on San Francisco’s waterfront, near the Embarcadero, was inspired by the Bay view from his kayak. “The first time I paddled was at sunset—it was incredible. And for the past 20 years I’ve been taking friends out to see it.”
In late May, paddlers can watch Kaboom, the big fireworks show on Piers 30 and 32 from the water. And in McCovey Cove through baseball season (until Oct. 1), you might catch a “splash hit” fly ball from Giants games at SBC Park, especially when left-fielder Barry Bonds is playing. Full moon kayaking occurs at sunset and includes champagne and a dinner box. Choi recommends it: “You get to watch the sunset, which is magical in itself, then see the full moon rise and have a sip of champagne.”
San Francisco Bay’s Treasure Island has a sea lion habitat, and sometimes the sleek swimmers come to the kayaks. “It’s fun to be greeted by sea lions,” says Choi.
Kayak experts: City Kayak Embarcadero at Townsend 415-357-1010, www.citykayak.com $60-$80 for most day trips; independent rental available after Bay rules briefing Highlights: Flashing lights, fly balls and sea lions. Where to eat: Choi suggests Crossroads Cafe, across the street from City Kayak, which has about 40 kinds of tea and Italian-inspired bar foods. There are large sofas and a patio. South Beach Cafe, owned by “two Italian guys who watch soccer games on TV while taking orders,” according to Choi, offers traditional and California-style pizzas. Crossroads Cafe South Beach Cafe |
Jacksonville
For a place that’s not known for its water, “Jax” has a lot of it. Florida’s longest river, the St. Johns, averages two miles in width through town, then empties into the Atlantic Ocean 20 miles from downtown.
“Jacksonville is the hub for an enormous amount of paddling and watersport trips,” says Howard Solomon, owner of Outdoor Adventures. His company runs about 12 paddle trips on nearby waterways, where it’s possible to spot otters, alligators and Great Blue herons.
Trips also go out of St. Augustine, the nation’s oldest city, 35 miles south. Attractions for paddlers include remnants of Spanish, British and American settlements and former plantations. Other trips leave from Georgia’s Cumberland Island. Its ferry landing is 50 miles north of Jacksonville. There, visitors can see wild horses and the old Carnegie mansion.
Kayak experts: Outdoor Adventures 1626 Emerson Street 904-393-9030, www.outdooradventuresfl.a.com $50-$100 per day Highlights: Islands, swamps and history. Where to eat: Solomon recommends Cap’s on the Water, under huge trees that face the Intracoastal Waterway, and Clark’s Fish Camp, by Julington Creek. Cap’s on the Water Clark’s Fish Camp |
Dallas
The 1,105-acre White Rock Lake, located in central Dallas, is the heart of the city and easily explored by kayak or canoe. Ecological tours take place 30 minutes outside the city at Lewisville Lake Environmental Learning Center (LLELA), an area near the Lewisville dam. Here, the fauna has not been disturbed since the 1950s dam pouring, according to Mike Swope, instructor and owner at Kayak Power. For an hour and 40 minutes, it’s possible not to see or hear human development. What might be visible are beavers, snapping turtles and a wide range of birds.
Kayak experts: Kayak Power 2331 Gus Thomasson Road 214-669-1663 or 214-562-0769 www.kayakpower.com $50 per day Highlights: Unspoiled nature and wildlife. Where to eat: Near White Rock Lake, Mike Swope suggests Bonnie Ruth’s, a tiny bistro that serves treats such as Zinfandel-poached pear and goat cheese salad, and Jack’s Burger House for a 1950s feel. Near LLELA is Christina’s for Mexican food. Bonnie Ruth’s Jack’s Burger House Christina’s |
Los Angeles
Ferries take about an hour to reach the town of Avalon on Catalina, the nearest of the Channel Islands, leaving from Long Beach and San Pedro, and Dana Point in Orange County. Getting there, you might spot seals, sea lions, nesting bald eagles and various fish, including California state’s fish, the bright orange garibaldi. One of the most popular tours, Frog Rock, is a two-hour trip to a big rock sticking out of the water that resembles, that’s right, a frog. It’s possible to rent kayaks to camp overnight to take advantage of the large portion of the island that is protected by the Catalina Island Conservancy.
Kayak experts: Descanso Beach Ocean Sports Avalon, CA 310-510-1226, www.kayakcatalinaisland.com $48-$64 per day Highlights: Islands and sea creatures. Where to eat: Randy Brannock, owner of Descanso Beach Ocean Sports, suggests Descanso Beach Club in the small town of Avalon for casual fare and cocktails by the water’s edge. Descanso Beach Club |
Boston
Known for its long tradition of college rowers, Beantown is a great place to take up a paddle and join the fun for the day.
Friday night kayak tours of the Charles River include a barbecue catered by Redbones in Somerville, Mass. Boaters get views of Frederick Law Olmsted’s Emerald Necklace (an interlinked series of parks created in the late 19th century), Harvard, MIT and Boston University, and the city skyline. From the Newton location, paddlers can go three miles in either direction of the surrounding Lake District, spotting small islands and birds such as the Great Egret and Great Blue heron.
Kayak experts: Charles River Canoe & Kayak 2401 Commonwealth Avenue 617-965-5110, www.paddleboston.com About $60 per day Highlights: City skyline, parks and universities. Where to eat: Tim Drain of Charles River Canoe & Kayak recommends Blue-Ribbon Bar-B-Q for pulled pork and Jamaican jerk chicken. Or Redbones Barbecue, which serves Austin, Texas-style beef barbecue. Blue-Ribbon Bar-B-Q Redbones Barbecue |
Words by Catherine Arnold