Philadelphia dining

Words by Jill Fergus

There’s far more to the City of Brotherly Love than cheesesteak.

If you haven’t been to Philadelphia recently, you’re sure of a big surprise. People flock here to see the Liberty Bell, the National Constitution Center and Independence Hall, all of which are important to American history. But you probably wouldn’t th ink that the city would be high on visitors’ lists for stellar gastronomic choices. Sure, everyone knows (and loves) the Philly cheesesteak, but in terms of good food, there is so much more to the place. In fact, a dynamic new dining scene is evident from Center City to Old City and beyond, and the charge is being led by restaurateur Stephen Starr, who owns numerous super-sexy restaurants. there are also plenty of great BYOB eateries that are getting attention for their innovative menus, as well as a few other emerging culinary trends. What’s more, Philly has some terrific food markets—not to mention an original take on the classic cheesesteak.

Entrepreneur Stephen Starr (www.starr-restaurant.com) is widely credited with launching the culinary boom in the City of Brotherly Love. His empire includes 12 restaurants, starting with the retro cocktail lounge the Continental Mid-town, which opened in 1995. Some of his most successful spots include Alma de Cuba, whose chef is Nuevo Latino star Douglas Rodriguez (standout dishes include grilled octopus and crab empanadas), and Buddakan, which is decorated with a 10-foot-tall gilded Buddha statue and features an Asian fusion menu brimming with delicious entrées, such as wasabi-crusted filet mignon and spicy pad th ai with shrimp. Plus, there is Morimoto, the nation’s only restaurant manned by Iron Chef Masahuru Morimoto (the sushi is to die for). Patrons know that Starr’s places have a see-and-be-seen vibe along with a high-concept design and specialty drinks. His latest are Barclay Prime, a modern steakhouse centrally located on Rittenhouse Square, and Striped Bass, with celebrity chef Alfred Portale of New York’s Goth am Bar & Grill fame.

Starr’s restaurants are fun and glamorous and definitely a scene, but if you are looking for someth ing a bit more low-key (and perhaps easier on the wallet), check out a few of the city’s many bring-your-own-booze places. these liquor-license-free establishments have long been a Philadelphia mainstay, but now they are becoming culinary destinations unto themselves rather than just a stop for an inexpensive dinner. Joining established BYOBs like Django, Pif, Pumpkin and Aden is a new crop helmed by some of the area’s leading chefs. Former chef de cuisine at Fork and the White Dog Café, Michael O’Halloran has opened Bistro 7 (215-931-1560), a minimalist restaurant in Old City. this jewel-box eatery with just 45 seats has a seasonal menu of New American dishes, such as mustard-roasted pork loin with sweet potatoes and braised red cabbage, and free-range chicken in a truffled butter sauce. Down the street at Mandoline (www.mandolineoldcity.com), chef Todd Lean’s contemporary American menu features comfort food like pistachio-crusted goat cheese, and pomegranate-marinated pork chops with bacon-laced mashed potatoes. And Michael Solomonov (formerly of Venti) has taken over the kitchen at the much-praised Marigold Kitchen (www.marigoldkitchenbyob.com), located in a beautiful brownstone in West Philly. Foie gras with apples and honey, seared scallops with oxtail tagine and root vegetables, and braised lamb shank with prunes and basmati rice are some of the menu highlights. To finish, don’t miss the honey-and-brioche bread pudding with golden raisins and pumpkin ice cream.

Another food trend is the emergence of the barbecue joint. Barbecue in Philly? Believe it. there have always been BBQ staples like the Rib Crib, Phoebe’s Bar-BQ and Ron’s Ribs, but a couple of new spots have given the old reliable ones some health y (or, should we say, not so health y) competition. the Smoked Joint (www.smokedjoint.com) on Locust Street serves up slow-cooked pulled pork and beef brisket sandwiches with horseradish sauce, grilled pizzas (try the barbecue chicken) and sides like sweet potato fries with ranch dressing and cornbread presented in individual skillets. In northeast Philly, there is Sweet Lucy’s Smokehouse (www.sweetlucys.com), owned by Brooke and Jim Higgins. What started in a trailer in 2003 has grown into a 80-seat restaurant with menu items like Texas beef brisket, pulled pork over hickory, smoked kielbasa and Memphis baby back ribs, accompanied by the likes of spicy collard greens, mashed potatoes with gravy, baked beans and macaroni salad. Tommy

Gunns (www.tommygunns.net), with two locations, has them lining up for finger-lickin’ spareribs, Kansas City baby back ribs, pulled pork and beef brisket, and all the calorie-laden fixin’s you’d expect from a down-home barbecue joint.

On the flip side of the rich food associated with barbecue, there is a tea trend that is sure to appeal to lighter palates. the recently opened Remedy Tea Bar (www.remedytea.com), owned by sisters Courtney and Kristen Kammerer, is aimed at a hip crowd who come to sip teas from a hand-picked selection of 50 varieties (black, green, white, herbal), as well as specialty drinks like lattes made with tea, steamed milk and caramel, or a Mart-tea-ni—a nonalcoholic cocktail of passion fruit iced tea, cranberry and lime juices. the Bubble House (www.thebubblehouse.com), which was recently expanded, is the spot that’s credited with starting Philly’s tea-drinking craze. the Asian restaurant offers dishes like lemongrass dumplings, coconut shrimp and th ai crab cakes, and its signature drink is the Bubble Tea, a concoction of tea, fruit flavoring (mango, watermelon, guava, kiwi, banana, etc) and tapioca balls, served hot or cold. the best place to stock up on tea is Premium Steap (www.wayneteasalon.com), formerly known as Wayne Tea Salon.

Located in Center City, the shop offers the finest full-leaf premium teas and tisanes from around the world—there are more than 100 varieties to choose from, including Ceylon black tea and Chinese green tea. While you are there, check out the gorgeous selection of teapots and cups.

If you prefer your tea in an elegant and refined setting, be sure to make a reservation at one of the city’s posh hotels like the Four Seasons (www.fourseasons.com), which serves its afternoon tea in the Swann Lounge. Guests can choose between a “social tea” or a “royal tea,” both of which include a selection of freshly brewed teas such as Darjeeling and Jasmine Blossom, scones with clotted cream and homemade preserves, finger sandwiches and desserts (the royal tea also includes Champagne). In the Rotunda lounge at the Ritz Carlton (www.ritzcarlton.com), you can sample British teas with sandwiches and pastries, while at the Rittenhouse Hotel (www.rittenhousehotel.com), the Mary Cassatt Tea Room is a delightful spot in which to enjoy tea and pastries.

You can also purchase specialty teas—and much more—at the Reading Terminal Market (www.readingterminalmarket.org), the oldest market in town (dating from 1893), housed in a former train shed that’s been converted into a gourmand’s dream. there are 80 merchants at this massive gastronomic bazaar, and just a few of the items for sale include fresh produce, meat, poultry, cheese, bread, seafood, spices, flowers, plants and handmade crafts, jewelry and cloth ing. Here you’ll also encounter many Amish merchants from nearby Lancaster county who have set up shop at the market—they’re known for their scrumptious baked goods, such as pies, strudels and soft pretzels.

Another well known food emporium is the 9th Street Italian Market (www.phillyitalianmarket.com), located in South Philly, a predominantly Italian enclave. At this Old World outdoor venue, you’ll find an amazing selection of meat stalls, cheese and homemade pasta shops, fish vendors and produce vendors selling everyth ing from Jersey tomatoes to Italian truffles. there are bakeries with piping hot bread and traditional Italian pastries like cannoli. And you’ll be hard-pressed to leave with out sampling some of the delectable foods, such as cheesesteaks, Neapolitan pizza, hoagies and seafoods such as steamed mussels. A visit here is truly like stepping back in time.

One of the major shops at the Italian Market, DiBruno Brothers’ House of Cheese (www.dibruno.com), has recently opened another branch on Chestnut Street in Center City. the state-of-the-art, two-floor store offers shoppers 500 varieties of cheese as well as smoked salmon, salamis, sausages and olive oil—there’s even a cappuccino and espresso bar. And the decades-old Famous Fourth Street Delicatessen (215-922-3274) has a new owner and a menu makeover, which is drawing more crowds than ever to its counters for Jewish delicacies like corned beef and pastrami sandwiches, matzoh ball soup and knishes— and the signature chocolate chip cookies.

Of course, you can’t leave Philadelphia with out sampling a cheesesteak: th inly sliced beef smothered with cheese (provolone or Cheez Whiz), topped with grilled onions and peppers and served on an Italian roll—delicious! they were supposedly invented in 1932 at Pat’s King of Steaks (www.patskingofsteaks.com) on Passyunk Avenue near 9th Street in South Philly. Pat’s is still going strong, as is Geno’s (www.genosteaks.com), right across the street (both are open all night long). the debate on which one is better is the stuff of legend. But since the culinary boom has taken hold of the city, chefs have been introducing their own versions and it’s no surprise that Stephen Starr’s restaurant Barclay Prime has joined the fray. Its cheesesteak, consisting of shaved Kobe beef, sautéed foie gras, shaved truffles and melted taleggio cheese, served in an artisanal bun, costs a whopping $100. So alth ough Philly is embracing the new, there is still a tradition of the old—just with a modern twist. For more information about Philadelphia, log onto www.gophila.com.