Polish to perfection

Experience Chicago’s diversity with a stroll down “Polish Broadway.”

Chicago’s artsy Wicker Park neighborhood, located northwest of the Loop (the local name for downtown Chicago), offers a fascinating cross-pollination of cultures with an energy all its own. Proud and gritty, fashionable yet approachable, the area showcases the best of the city within a few short blocks.

Back in its 1940s heyday, West Division Street—one of the neighborhood’s main arteries—was known as “Polish Broadway,” with dozens of taverns and nightspots catering to the sizeable Polish community. A wave of Mexican and Puerto Rican immigrants followed in the ’60s and ’70s and today, multiple ethnic groups live side-by-side with hipsters and adventurous yuppies.

Nods to the area’s Polish heritage can be found at the Polish Museum of America (984 N Milwaukee Ave; 773-384-3352; pma.prcua.org). Founded in 1935, it remains one of the oldest ethnic museums in the country. Walk up the stairs past vintage World War II relief posters and check out the display dedicated to Pope John Paul II, a massive painting of Revolutionary War hero, Casimir Pulaski, and striking stained glass from the 1939 World’s Fair in New York.

If this puts you in the mood for authentic Polish cooking, head northwest and take a left on Division to reach Podhalanka (1549 W Division; 773-486-6655), a former tavern now dishing out unbelievably cheap borscht (beet soup), pierogi and hearty pork dishes. Belly up to the granite bar in the no-frills dining room for breakfast, lunch or an early dinner, and join the cops and neighborhood types who’ve been coming here for more than 20 years.

A few blocks west, you’ll spot the Polish writing on the façade of the Alliance Bakery & Café (1736 W Division; 773-278-0366; www..alliance-bakery.com). Excellent cakes, cookies and pastries, along with coffee and sandwiches, make this a perfect spot for a quick break from a stroll down the boulevard.

For lovers of Mexican street food, Ashland Avenue, just south of Division, features three classic taquerias—all are named La Pasadita (773-278-0384) and all serve arguably the best steak tacos in the city. The location at 1141 North Ashland is strictly take-out, while 1140 across the street draws a late-night crowd and 1132 provides a slightly more upscale experience. Near the fountain at the old “Polish Triangle,” where Milwaukee, Ashland and Division Avenues meet, vendors sell elotes, steamed corn doused in butter, mayo, cheese and spicy red pepper.

But there’s more than Polish and Mexican cuisine to savor. One of the pioneers of the current urban renaissance is Smoke Daddy (1804 W Division; 773-772-6656; www.thesmokedaddy.com), a barbecue joint that’s been offering up ribs, brisket and pulled-pork sandwiches since 1994. The owners call their barbecue “Chicago style” – a “best-of” that incorporates North Carolina and Kansas City influences. Free live blues and rockabilly make it easy to settle in the red leather booths and stay for another round of cold beers.

West of Damen Avenue, Enoteca Roma (2146 W Division; 773-342-1011; www.enotecaroma.com) delivers a laidback interpretation of a typical Italian wine bar, with food and wine that’s heavy on flavor and easy on pretension, and a variety of Italian, French, Californian and other global vintages available by the glass or bottle. Recent highlights from the rustic Roman menu include bruschetta with strawberries, mascarpone cheese and balsamic reduction, and delicate pumpkin ravioli.

Stop by the Gold Star Bar (1755 W Division; 773-227-8700) for a drink at one of the last of the classic watering holes from the Polish Broadway days. It’s also home to a great jukebox and the cheapest bottled beer around. For something completely different, try Sigara Hookah Café & Lounge (2013 W Division; 773-292-9190; www.sigaralounge.com) and puff on some tasty flavored tobaccos while enjoying belly dancing after 10:30pm, Thursdays through Saturdays.

There’s also quality shopping on West Division Street. More expensive boutiques are starting to appear, but most remain quirky and affordable. At Paper Doll (1747 W Division; 773-227-6950), gifts like elf-shaped soap and tuxedo onesies elicit a smirk and the greetings cards are consistently clever. Step into the time machine at Penelope’s (1913 W Division; 773-395-2351) for a game of Ms Pacman, a pair of now-they’re-cool corduroy Wranglers or a wacky designer T-shirt. Or visit Porte Rouge (1911 W Division; 773-269-2800; www.porterouge.biz) for high-quality country

French-inspired kitchen and tableware.

With unique shops, plentiful dining and a variety of cultures living harmoniously together, a walk down West Division Street is an ideal way to catch a glimpse of Chicago’s storied past while also taking a peak at its funky future. There’s so much going on, the neighborhood’s golden days could be yet to come.