RESTAURANT GUIDE FEBRUARY 2006

WORDS BY Tony Ware

Canoe $$$

4199 Paces Ferry Rd NW, Upper Buckhead/Vinings
770-432-2663
Dressy Casual / Dressy
Contemporary American cuisine

Perched on the Chattahoochee River, Canoe celebrates 10 years as rustic refined. This local classic is like a chalet, under whose cherry wood barrel-vaulted ceilings, blackclad servers deliver elegant, smartly conceived seasonal New American flavors. The idyllic vista is certainly worth drinking in deeply, and chef Carvel Grant Gould’s vivid cuisine uses the freshest locally sourced ingredients to make hardy, but never heavyhanded, wine-friendly dishes balancing crisp detailing and comforting warmth.

BUCKHEAD / BROOKHAVEN

eatZi’s Market & Bakery $

3221 Peachtree Rd NE
404-237-2266
Casual
Gourmet grocery goodies

An upscale grocery for foodies in Buckhead, eatZi’s may lack ambiance past classical music and the bustling bodies of its toned yuppie clientele, but it makes up for any lost character with fl avors. A few seats are available, but what’s more fun is snagging heaps of market fresh take-out home and having a living room picnic.

 

Landmark Junior $

2277 Cheshire Bridge Rd
404-633-8240
Casual
Classic diner fare

Club crawlers and a cast of neighborhood characters alike appreciate this gleaming 24-hour diner located in a gritty commercial corridor of Atlanta. Order greasy and Greek favorites, tried-and-tested since the ’50s, along with a “cup o’ joe,” and sit back and watch the city unwind.

The Café at East Andrews $$

56 East Andrews Dr
404-869-1132
Smart Casual / Dressy Casual
Fusion/eclectic

Adjacent to Andrews Upstairs music venue, the Café at East Andrews is equally lively. Past a fountain-centered courtyard, a rich wood-paneled and buttery leather dining room hosts parties passing seafood small plates and full-bodied entrées with New American nuances. The bar scene often overshadows but the sweet potato ravioli, roast chicken and Chilean sea bass are highly recommended.

 

Toulouse $$

2293 Peachtree Rd NE
404-351-9533
Smart Casual / Dressy Casual
American with a Gallic twist

Serving French-tinged American cuisine, Toulouse is all about subtlety, from its unassuming location tucked behind a Peachtree Street shopping strip, to its spirited but never flashy cuisine. A loft-like space of exposed brick and saturated hues, this bistro is well practiced in the art of pairing luscious dishes with excellent wines.

 

Woodfire Grill $$$

1782 Cheshire Bridge Rd
404-347-9055
Smart Casual / Dressy Casual
Simple, seasonal, organic

Rustic and seasonal, the organic cuisine at Woodfire Grill changes daily, infl uenced by a North California mentality. The votive-fl icked dining room, however, remains a mustard-almost-pumpkin hue with bronzed patinas and deeply stained woods. It’s a snug lodge of house made signatures so “simple”-yet-scintillating it’s hard to dislodge.

The Dining Room at the Ritz-Carlton $$$$

3434 Peachtree Rd
404-237-2700
Dressy
French, Mediterranean and Asian contemporary fine dining

Impeccable as it is innovative, the sublime Dining Room at the Ritz-Carlton has been the launching pad for some of Atlanta’s most lauded chefs. Now, new chef Arnaud Berthelier has excised fusion elements to shepherd stately-yet-playful Gallic cuisine in what is surely the most opulent and impeccably serviced dining establishment in the city.

 

M!X Lounge, Bar, Restaurant $$

1441 Dresden Dr, Brookhaven
404-969-3250
Funky Casual / Dressy Casual
American with Italian, Asian and Mediterranean influences

This Brookhaven enclave aims to “put you in the M!X” with two coquettish conversation corners, as well as a ripply banquette looking out on the space’s centerpiece—a bar where foodies and fare mix it up. Bold pop art dots the walls and menu—sharing plates fusing Italian, Mediterranean and Asian infl uences presented with architectural flair.

MIDTOWN

 

Da Vinci’s $$

672 Myrtle St NE
404-389-0567
Casual
Hearty Italian fare

With a bar on the ground fl oor and a narrow rumpus room of a bistro above, Da Vinci’s offers as vivacious a setting as any family gathering, especially in the later hours (the restaurant stays open till 2.30am Monday-Saturday). The food is hearty fare—stromboli and calzones especially are doughy, bulging logs stuffed for two.

 

MetroFresh $

931 Monroe Dr
404-724-0155
Casual
Fresh food fast

MetroFresh’s cozy space is as airy and invigorating as the cuisine is naturally lite yet zesty. Inspired by beloved lunch bistro Souper Jenny, MetroFresh offers perky, focused mix-and-match deli counter meals to those on-the-go types looking for daily changing nourishment.

Tamarind   $$$

80 14th St NW
404-873-4888
Dressy Casual / Dressy
Authentic Thai cuisine

Almost at the edge of the Interstate and with difficult parking, Tamarind rewards the effort of getting there with some of the city’s finest Thai food. Brisk service meets bracing, multi-faceted flavors, especially in the curries. The richly nuanced edibles, ambiance and attentiveness are calming in the urban clamor.

The Grape at Midtown $

999 Peachtree St
404-875-4727
Casual
Gourmet Mediterranean

The wine bars and shops of The Grape franchise offer more than 100 wines in three serving sizes and 10 classifications by body. The food selection varies also, from spreads, cheeses and sandwiches to meatier fare, satisfying all palates and with a beautiful skyline view.

South City Kitchen $$$

1144 Crescent Ave
404-873-7358
Dressy Casual
New South cuisine

Atlanta’s Midtown is a swiftly developing quarter, but mainstay South City Kitchen still celebrates contemporary Southern cuisine in a ’20s bungalow conversion. The open interior plays host to sweet and soothing regional cuisine. Honest, delicate and decadent fl avors are executed with aplomb.

Ola $

1197 Peachtree St
404-892-9292
Casual / Funky Casual
Latin American tapas

Ola is a Latin American/Spanish tapas/ taquería hybrid from Tom Catherall (of Twist, Prime, Noche). Spurred by travels through Argentina, Chile and Barcelona, Ola’s chefs offer a multi-faceted, affordable tasting menu of robust, flirty flavors in an equally lively setting.

 

REYNOLDSTOWN / KIRKWOOD / CABBAGETOWN

RuSan’s $

1220 Caroline St Ste. A-200
404-653-9886
Casual
Sushi

Part of a local chain, RuSan’s does brisk business serving Americanized sushi rolls in great volume and at low prices, a starter room for exploring this culinary niche. If dining on less of a budget, there are Pan-Asian soup bowls, appetizers and entrées.

 

Sun in My Belly $

2161 College Ave, Kirkwood
404-370-1088
Casual
Hearty, innovative café fare

A catering business and café carved from a former hardware store, Sun in My Belly perks up a sleepy stretch of trackside road. Sandwiches accompanied by crisp greens and bursting fresh fruit, coffee and brunch items, as well as seasonal entrées are served in a charming and quirky shabby chic and antiques environment.

 

OUTSIDE THE PERIMETER

 

Fleming’s Prime Steakhouse and Wine Bar $$$

4501 Olde Perimeter Way, Sandy Springs
770-698-8112
Smart Casual / Dressy Casual
Classic steakhouse fare

Part of a national chain expanding exponentially, Fleming’s features bold décor, signature salt and pepper broiled prime beef, a host of equally succulent sides, as well as seafood and generous salads. Fleming’s also prides itself on a list of 100 wines by the glass to complement any mood.

 

Hi Life Kitchen & Cocktails $$$

3380 Holcomb Bridge Rd, Norcross
770-409-0101
Smart Casual / Dressy Casual
Re-invented American cuisine

Despite its suburban shopping strip locale, Hi Life Kitchen & Cocktails offers hip but never haughty New American bistro fl are. Both décor and menu have a polish and warm pulse, with the interpretations of lobster, crab and beef (all with seasonal garnishes) especially adroit.

 

Canton Cooks $$

5984 Roswell Rd NE, Sandy Springs
404-252-0322
Casual
Authentic Cantonese

You can often gauge a restaurant’s authenticity by its clientele, and here Cantonese is the predominant language. Canton Cooks offers a wide variety of seafood- and duck-heavy cuisine—and specialties such as salt and pepper squid and snow pea leaves—with finesse until 2am. But don’t just listen to the diners—the food speaks for itself.

 

WEST MIDTOWN

 

Lobby at TWELVE $$$

361 17th St
404-961-7370
Funky Casual / Dressy Casual
Contemporary American cuisine

Adhering chic to the shops of Atlantic Station, Lobby at TWELVE (a boutique hotel) is conceptualized and run by Bob Amick (known for ONE. Midtown Kitchen, TWO. Urban Licks, Piebar). The result is three corridors of unfurling, voluminous and sensually lit space featuring burnt sienna hues, buttery leather and wood burning ovens offering New American cuisine with subtle tweaks. As well as the hip bar and restaurant, the new boutique hotel offers a private guest lounge, outdoor pool, fitness center, ballroom and business center. TWELVE Hotels and Residences is a concept aimed at style-conscious professionals, with both upscale urban condominium homes at attractive prices and hotel suites at business rates.

 

West Egg Café $

1168-A Howell Mill Rd
404-872-3973
Casual
Stylish, quirky sandwich shop

West Egg Café is a rosy warehouse conversion turned coffeehouse and sandwich shop also serving breakfast all day every day. Whether enjoying the range of Batdorf & Bronson coffees or Harney and Sons teas or flirty takes on breakfast staples, this Egg is a well-hatched concept.

 

DECATUR

 

Café Alsace $

121 E Ponce De Leon Ave
404-373-5622
Casual / Dressy Casual
Homey French/German fare

Within these provincial brica-brac dotted mustard and burgundy walls is celebrated the pleasant peasant cuisine of a region influenced equally by French and German tradition: earthy, aromatic selections that are served as hearty as they are homey in this intimate environ.

 

Café Lily $$

308 W Ponce De Leon Ave
404-371-9119
Smart Casual
Creative Mediterranean

A cozy, candlelit bistro that merges the flavors of the Mediterranean on to one menu, foregoing fl ash for sizzle. All the food radiates warmth—no matter the temperature at which it’s served—and the hand-hewn charm of the widely cast regions (Spain, Italy, Greece, etc) from which the menu draws.

 

Udipi Café $

1850 Lawrenceville Hwy
404-325-1933
Casual
Southern Indian cuisine

Named after a region of Southern India, this café offers a survey of deep-fried yet not deeply greasy vegetarian cuisine, served with lentils, rice, yogurt, cilantro and curry condiments. The décor and cuisine may appear outwardly modest, but the fl avors hidden within the supremely affordable fare are expansive.