Wilshire Blvd, LA

WORDS BY BILL KALLAY

Cruise Down Memory Lane

Relive Hollywood’s golden age with a trip down Wilshire Boulevard.

The ’80s NewWave band Missing Persons got it right: “Nobody walks in LA.” But, you can certainly cruise through it. And one of the classiest streets around is Wilshire Boulevard. This 16-mile stretch of Southern California asphalt runs from the skyscrapers on Grand Avenue in Downtown to the beach at Santa Monica. Landmarks abound, with Wilshire presenting a combination of classic LA architecture and modern Southern California style. It’s almost enough to make you want to get out and walk.

Named after Henry Gaylord Wilshire, the boulevard was once known as the “Fifth Avenue of the West Coast.” Developers like Wilshire imagined it as an elegant thoroughfare on a par with the famous streets of the world. Over the years, Wilshire grew and prospered. Charlie Chaplin, Cecil B DeMille, Robert F Kennedy, architect S Charles Lee and many other famous faces could once regularly be seen on Wilshire, conducting business and mingling with the rest of the glitterati.

They are now part of Los Angeles lore, as are many of the landmarks that once stood on Wilshire. The Ambassador Hotel, with its Coconut Grove, hosted Oscar ceremonies for a few years. The Brown Derby, one of six in the city, was the site of many Hollywood power lunches back in the days of director DeMille. The Ambassador Hotel, once a crown jewel, was tarnished by the assassination of Robert F Kennedy, and though it stood until 1989, the Los Angeles Unified School District’s need to build schooling on the spacious grounds finally sealed the hotel’s fate for good. As for the Brown Derby, the famous bowler hat can still be seen, but it’s now behind a strip mall.

But don’t fret—not all is lost on Wilshire Blvd. After all, this is the land of happy Hollywood endings. There are plenty of sites that can still be viewed and enjoyed today.

The best time to cruise through Wilshire is usually during weekday evenings and on the weekends. LA is known for traffic, but if you plan accordingly, driving down Wilshire can be hassle-free. Parking at most stops on Wilshire is not free, but certain parts of the boulevard have limited free parking, as do certain side streets. Alternatively, if you decide not to explore by car, the Metropolitan Transit Authority (MTA) Red Line runs from Union Station in Downtown to the Wilshire Blvd and Western Avenue station.

So, set aside some free time to explore this stretch of history. All you’ll need is your coolest pair of sunglasses, a stylish convertible, a gorgeous driving companion and a little bit of patience with the traffic. These attractions are sure to make any gridlock seem a pleasure…

Bullock’s Wilshire
3050 Wilshire Blvd
www.swlaw.edu

Once a grand dame of department stores, this art deco masterpiece was in danger of being demolished as shoppers gravitated to the regional malls that dot Southern California. Luckily, the building was bought and restored by Southwestern Law School. Not officially open to the public, the school does, however, offer occasional tours. If you get around to Wilshire and Westmoreland, this is simply a beautiful building to behold.

The Miracle Mile
Between La Brea and Fairfax Avenues

The “Miracle Mile,” a section of Wilshire, once served as LA’s shopping core. Prominent museums now have taken the place of local department store icons like I Magnin and May Co. Another neat Miracle Mile site to be seen, especially at night, is the El Rey Theatre at 5515 Wilshire Blvd.

The Los Angeles County Museum of Art (LACMA)
5905 Wilshire Blvd
www.lacma.org

The museum held not one, but two engagements of the King Tut exhibit, once in 1978 and again in 2005. The King is gone, but the museum still hosts world-class art exhibits and film festivals. The permanent collection boasts work by artists such as Winslow Homer, Edgar Degas and Eugène Delacroix. Classic and specialized films are shown at the museum’s Leo S Bing Theatre, while various jazz and classical concerts fill the night air in the courtyard. Check the museum’s website for hours and exhibits.

La Brea Tar Pits
5801 Wilshire Blvd
www.tarpits.org

A short walk down a pathway through the gardens next to LACMA are the La Brea Tar Pits. The swampy, bubbling tar has been an attraction for school children for years. What could be better than seeing Columbian mammoths stuck in icky tar? The George C Page Museum, which houses fossils and numerous exhibits, caters to paleontologists of all ages.

Petersen Automotive Museum
6060 Wilshire Blvd
www.petersen.org

This is the perfect attraction for a city built around the automobile. The multi-fl oor museum holds a vast collection of some of the most beautiful, most exotic and fastest cars ever built. Visitors can explore decades of automotive excellence through various Los Angeles street scenes and check out the cars of those eras up close and personal. Other fl oors hold ever-changing exhibits dedicated to everything from vintage motorcycles to Hot Wheels.

Johnie’s Coffee Shop
6101 Wilshire Blvd
www.johnieswilshire.org

Another piece of classic LA car culture stands across the way from the Petersen. Johnie’s Coffee Shop is a local landmark, built in 1955 in the Southern California “Googie” style. Angular lines and simplicity define this quirky ode to hamburgers, ice-cold milkshakes and fresh pie. Although it’s been closed since 2000, the restaurant is rented out to film crews and is occasionally opened to the public via a local preservation group, the Los Angeles Conservancy.

The Wilshire Theatre
8440 Wilshire Blvd
www.broadwayla.org

While most classic movie theaters have been torn down in the name of progress, architect S Charles Lee’s opulent showcase, originally named the Fox Wilshire and part of a huge movie chain, has been preserved for the ages. Films like The Sound of Music and 2001: A Space Odyssey once screened here, but since 1981, the Nederlander organization has used the venue to host live performances and plays. Entering the grand lobby, you’ll be reminded of what movie showmanship was once about. Glamorous staircases lead up to the balcony, and the auditorium is adorned in intricate designs from the 1930s.

The Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences
8949 Wilshire Blvd
www.oscars.org

The Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences is famous for giving out coveted Oscars each year. But did you know that, on occasion, the public can be a part of this exclusive society? The Academy often holds screenings, seminars and art exhibits that are either free or can be seen for very little money. In the Samuel Goldwyn Theatre, the public can watch classics like Doctor Zhivago and Bonnie and Clyde in what is one of the most state-of-theart theaters in the world. Programs also feature Academy Award-winning cartoons and short films. Downstairs in the lobby, the gallery often features vintage movie posters and exhibitions focusing on various trades within the movie industry.

Beverly Hilton Hotel
9876 Wilshire Blvd
www.beverlyhilton.com

At the corner of Wilshire and Santa Monica Boulevards is the landmark Beverly Hilton Hotel. Conrad Hilton opened this Welton Beckett-designed luxury hotel in 1955, and it quickly became one of the preeminent hotels for movie stars and politicians. After an $80-million renovation by new owner Beny Alagem in 2005, 42-inch plasma screen TVs and Fili D’Oro bed linens now are featured in every room. For fine dining and a touch of ’50s tiki-style ambience, visit Trader Vic’s, considered the best Polynesian restaurant in Southern California.

Palisades Park and Santa Monica State Beach
Intersection of Ocean Avenue and Wilshire
www.santa-monica.org

Drive past the outskirts of UCLA and the Los Angeles National Cemetery, to end your Wilshire trip at Palisades Park. A lovely art deco statue of Saint Monica greets you. Behind her is Santa Monica State Beach. This beautiful coastline has been featured in a number of television shows and in movies. Looking south, you’ll see the famous Santa Monica Pier with its Pacific Ocean Park, an ode to amusement parks of yesteryear.

AirTran Airways provides daily fl ights to Los Angeles.
You can also get great deals on car rentals with AirTran Airways partner, Hertz. Visit www.airtran.com for details