20 best restaurants

WORDS BY JANE BLACK

If you are what you eat, you´d better be eating the best that´s available. Here are 20 places to get you started, no matter where your destination.

Momofuku

Momofuku means “lucky peach,” and while we have no idea what that has to do with delicious barbecue pork buns and steaming bowls of noodle soup, one taste and you won’t much care. Start with the steamed buns (which also come with Portobello mushrooms for the veggie crowd) or sautéed baby bok choy. But make sure to save room for the signature Momofuku ramen. The meaty stock—made from pounds of chicken legs, roasted pork bones, ham hocks and bacon—is filled with a tangle of perfectly al dente noodles, a glorious, orange-yolked poached egg and, you guessed it, more juicy pork. Maybe the only thing wrong is the name. We’d call this New York City institution “Hog Heaven.” 212-475-7899, www.eatmomofuku.com

Masa

The unconverted might argue that $300 per person for uncooked fish is a bit steep. But ask anyone lucky enough to have snagged one of the 26 seats at Masa, NYC, if their meal was worth the price, and the answer is a definite “yes.” You’ll find no menus inside the sparse, dimly lit space at the shimmering Time Warner Center. But chef Masa Takayam’s omkase (tasting) menu will treat you to glorious dishes such as toro (fatty tuna) tartar with caviar, aji mackerel sashimi tossed in shiso blossoms, or uni (sea urchin) risotto. Undoubtedly, the eating is the best part, but watching the chefs prepare your meal with Samurai precision is a close second. 212-823-9800, www.masanyc.com

Mijita

Is it unreasonable to demand authentic Mexican food and a fabulous view for under $10 per person? Not at Mijita, where chef Traci Des Jardins honors the regional dishes of Mexico (and her Mexican-born grandmother) by cooking up treats like Oaxacan chicken tamales, Baja-style fish tacos and albondigas—a spicy meatball soup. Des Jardins, who is best known for her fine French restaurant Jardiniere, uses local, organic ingredients whenever possible. So order at the counter, then take a seat at one of the thick wooden tables where you will take in soaring views of the San Francisco Bay Bridge and Berkeley Hills. Don’t miss the exotic agua frescas, such as lime cucumber and imported Mexican sodas. 415-399-0814, www.mijitasf.com

Lupa

How is it possible to make brussels sprouts taste this good? Lupa, a classic Roman trattoria and part of the Mario Batali empire, solves this mystery (slice them thinly and serve with salty pecorino cheese and a drizzle of peppery extra virgin olive oil) and many others, serving up utterly simple foods that dazzle the palate. Bavette with cacio and pepe—essentially pasta with salt and pepper—is a masterpiece, as is ricotta gnocchi with sausage and fennel. The noisy trattoria in the heart of Manhattan’s West Village also offers unmissable daily specials such as a whole roasted fish and homemade lamb sausage. Everything on the menu goes down well with one of the well-priced, and often unusual, bottles of Italian red wine. 212-982-5089 www.luparestaurant.com

Conventional wisdom says the French Laundry is the best restaurant in the country, perhaps the world. And for once, it’s right. The hushed contemporary dining room, set in an unprepossessing house in the small Napa town of Yountville, about an hour north of San Francisco, is a shrine to haute gastronomy. Choose from one of three nine-course, $175, tasting menus that, if you’re lucky, will include some of Thomas Keller’s most famous creations such as oysters and pearls (glistening caviar and oysters served on a bed of creamy pearl tapioca) or the soon-to-be famous Kobe beef served with chanterelle mushrooms, Perigord truffl e sauce and golden corn pudding. There’s even an inspirational option for vegetarians that includes seasonal gems like a matsutake mushroom tart, fl eur de sel shortbread topped with Vidalia onion marmalade, Tahitian vanilla and glazed scallions. 707-944-2380, www.thomaskeller.com

Seeger’s

From the outside, Seeger’s might not look like much. But inside the unassuming, whitewashed brick cottage, you’ll find a gleaming, intimate setting and some of the best food in Atlanta: Alaskan king crab salad with glazed mango and vanilla sauce, foie gras with onion mousse and pineapple coulis, and Georgia peaches with fig panna cotta and vanilla sorbet. Order à la carte or choose from a series of prix fixe menus—including a standard five-course menu or the eight-course chef’s tasting menu. 404-846-9779, www.seegers.com

Blue Ginger

Fusion may be out of fashion but celebrity chef Ming Tsai hasn’t noticed—and diners should be grateful. Located just outside of Boston, this East-meets-West bistro is as innovative and friendly as it was when Tsai, then unknown, opened eight years ago with stunningly fresh dishes such as garlic-black pepper lobster with lemongrass rice, and sake-miso marinated butterfish. Now classics, they’re still on the menu, alongside new creations like cornmeal-crusted skate wing with yuzu (a Japanese grapefruit) and homey favorites like Tsai’s mom’s three-vinegar organic shrimp. Best of all, Tsai still cooks most nights, although he’s also available for photos and autographs. 781-283-5790, www.ming.com

Cosmi’s Deli

What makes up the perfect cheesesteak is well defined by artery-clogged Philadelphians: the bread should be fresh, and the thin ribbons of salty steak and onion cradled by a slice of provolone and a generous smear of Cheese Wiz. But where to find that ideal sandwich remains a stiff bone of contention. Jim’s on South Street has a line out the door every day, and Pat’s and Geno’s on Passyunk is a civic institution. But around the corner at Cosmi’s Deli is where you’ll find Philadelphia’s very best. The chopped steak is well-seasoned, and the (optional) onions add just enough acidity to temper that oozing, delectable processed cheese. 215-468-6093

Fiorella’s Jack Stack Barbeque

The Carolinas claim to be the cradle of American barbecue, and Texas is the brisket capital. But when it comes to a lip-smackin’, finger-lickin’ barbecue, Kansas City is king. And no one does it better than Fiorella’s Jack Stack Barbecue. Besides some of the best sweet-and-spicy sauce lathered on racks of ribs, you’ll find crunchy, smokey burnt ends (aka brisket trimmings), barbecued Polish sausages and great sides like batter-dipped onion rings and hickory barbecued beans. And the best news: Fiorella’s ships nationwide. 816-472-7427, www.jackstackbbq.com

Ben’s Chili Bowl

Housed in an old movie theater, Ben’s Chili Bowl has been a Washington DC institution since 1958 when it first served up its famous chilidog—a beef dog grilled and served on a steamed bun with mustard, onions and Ben’s spicy homemade chili. Duke Ellington, Miles Davis, Ella Fitzgerald, Nat King Cole, Martin Luther King, Jr and Bill Cosby have all visited “the Bowl” to down a few dogs or a chili burger and soak up the atmosphere. Whether you eat at the old-time lunch counter or in one of the red vinyl booths, you’ll get friendly and efficient service and a real taste of Washington’s history. 202-667-0909, www.benschilibowl.com

The Spiced Pear

Just over an hour’s drive from Boston, in Newport, RI, is one of the best views money can buy. It was good enough for the Astors and Vanderbilts, it’s spectacular for the rest of us. No wonder the view from the Spiced Pear, the luxurious restaurant at the Chanler, is so prized. The tables are lit with votive candles, and torches light the formal gardens. As you take in the spectacular views of the Atlantic and the roar of the crashing surf, you can choose from caviar and champagne, butter-poached lobster, or pan-seared duck breast with lentils and chestnut honey. All are delivered with a fl ourish by the expertly trained staff. 401-847-2244, www.spicedpear.com

Country Sweet Chicken and Ribs

It’s probably heresy to say it, but the best wings may not be in Buffalo—where they were invented 40 years ago. But they are close by… in Rochester to be exact. The down-home Country Sweet Chicken and Ribs offers Rochester wings, which—unlike small, crispy Buffalo wings—are big, breaded and fried, then tossed in a sweet sauce and served with your other fried goodies like French fries and batter-dipped onion rings. 716-442-1414

Frasca Food and Wine

Something has gone horribly wrong with tasting menus. Instead of highlighting the season’s best, chefs use them to show off or, worse, to compete with each other to create endless extravagant meals. However, at Frasca Food and Wine in Boulder, CO, Lachlan McKinnon-Patterson— an acolyte of Thomas Keller—creates simple, exquisite Monday night dinners for just $29. His food, which draws inspiration from the northern Italian region of Friuli, might include a sampling of salumi; followed by tomato speck broth with calamari and coral ling cod; carved meatballs with wilted spinach and potatoes; and creamy homemade frozen yogurt drizzled in local honey. It’s the perfect taste of a talented chef’s best. 303-442-6966, www.frascafoodandwine.com

Jar

A renowned steakhouse wouldn’t be most people’s first choice for brunch, but that’s because most steakhouses aren’t run by chefs as talented as LA’s Suzanne Tracht. On Sunday mornings, the self-taught chef embraces the classics—pancakes and French toast— but isn’t afraid to add a sophisticated twist on other much-loved items. Try the lobster benedict—two poached eggs, served with char sui pork, pea tendrils, and lobster béarnaise, or the signature pot roast hash that comes alongside two eggs, potatoes, onions, peppers and coffee gravy. 323-655-6566, www.thejar.com

The Ivy

Dessert has to be pretty good to persuade body-conscious Los Angelinos to go off their perpetual diets. But Richard Irving has an excellent reputation… and with good reason. Not even stars like Ben Affl eck and Jennifer Aniston can resist the traditional tarte tatin, fudgy pecan brownies or perfectly tart lemon pie. For secret binge eaters, the warm, gooey chocolate chip cookies are wrapped up in gorgeous pink boxes to go. 310-274-8303

Aureole, Las Vegas

Only in Vegas could you find a wine cellar inspired by a scene in Mission: Impossible. But then, maybe that’s why everyone loves Vegas. At Aureole, located in the Mandalay Bay Resort & Casino, the cellar is a tower, four stories tall, that holds 9,500 bottles, many of them French and rare.

To efficiently examine the list, a solicitous sommelier will guide you through an electronic list displayed on a glorified PDA, then send one of the “wine angels” to rappel down the tower to retrieve your bottle. According to the restaurant, the angels can travel from top to bottom in 10 seconds fl at. 702-632-7401, www.aureolelv.com

Craigie Street Bistrot

Most people think of French restaurants as shrines to haute gastronomy.
But like any cuisine, the best French food is simply made with the freshest ingredients. Chef Tony Maws applies this philosophy with fl air at this utterly unpretentious Cambridge, MA, basement bistro. The house specialty—farm-fresh eggs en cocotte—has yolks the color of pumpkin and will make you rethink (and reject) the eggs you’ve been eating all your life. For dessert, Maws dresses up down-home grits with a brown sugar brûlée, raspberries and anise hyssop ice cream. 617-497-5511, www.craigiestreetbistrot.com

The Inn at Little Washington

When you want the answer to be yes, pick out a sparkly ring and head to the historic Inn at Little Washington (located an hour and a half from DC, in Washington, VA). Inside the rose-lit dining room, your heart will say yes to every magnificent course, which might include Maine diver’s scallop encrusted with black sesame seeds on tangle of tart greens; or a pistachio-crusted grilled lamb chop with forest mushrooms and carrot and ginger essence. After a meal of this kind, being together forever will seem all too short. 540-675-3800, www.theinnatlittlewashington.com

The Blue Door at the Delano

The Blue Door at Miami’s stylish Delano hotel used to be a place only to see and be seen. But, a few years ago, legendary French chef Claude Troisgros revamped the menu and now the rich and famous come here to eat as well. You can dine in the heavenly main dining room, but the locals choose to enjoy eggs benedict with sliced truffl es and fresh seafood salads and sushi overlooking the hotel’s famous infinity pool. 305-672-2000, www.delano-hotel.com

City Zen
This is the closest thing to New York in Washington, DC—no wonder the capital’s powerbrokers are rushing to make and break deals in this quiet, sophisticated dining room. The city may be renowned for its conservative tastes, but chef Eric Ziebold, a French Laundry alumnus, bravely serves up lovely, and often exotic, dishes like chestnut soup garnished with braised quince and Parma ham; or poached duck breast paired with duck foie gras and served with a mille-feuille of beets and apples. And while all have been received with rave reviews, the favorite remains the old-fashioned, homemade parker house rolls. Located in the Mandarin Oriental. 202-787-6006, www.mandarinoriental.com