FALL IN COLORADO
WORDS BY ALEX MILLER
AUTUMN AMONG THE ASPEN
© Getty
Add low prices and perfect weather to what you love about summer in the High Country —it’s a wonder the place isn’t mobbed.
Top the summit of Colorado’s Hoosier Pass in either direction and you’ll be treated to the kind of views that simply cry out to be immortalized on a postcard. A 4”x6” photo, though, can never convey the sheer scope and jaw-dropping scale of the South Park region of the state.
And in autumn, the turning aspen, deliciously crisp air and friendly sun make this and other areas of the High Country simply extraordinary.
An ancient lake bed surrounded by towering peaks mostly bare of snow in fall, a tour of South Park is one of the many hundreds of excellent autumn drives to take in the state. This is the perfect time of year to take your Hertz rental car and show it what you mean by “unlimited mileage.” With stunning vistas that breathe life into the soul, even a short trip can feel like a full-fledged nature expedition.
Autumn, mountain locals like to say, is the time of year when they truly worship the ground they walk on.
“It’s difficult to imagine a more wonderful place to be at this time of year,” says Jenny Larkin, a resident of Frisco, CO. “Almost every day is beautiful and sunny, and it stays in the low-tomid-60s, so it’s perfect for outdoor things like hiking or biking.”
The other big benefit to a high-altitude autumn is the almost complete absence of other visitors. Sure, some Denverites know it’s a great time to head to the hills, but after Labor Day, 90% of the summer tourists are long gone. In their absence, hotels offer deep discounts, restaurants run two-for-one deals and you don’t have to wait in line for anything. Traffic? Forget about it.
One thing to bear in mind when visiting the mountain resort areas in autumn is that many of the programs and activities that keep the place humming all summer long have now shut down. This is much more of a “do it yourself” time of year, which isn’t to say that there isn’t still plenty to do—you just have to be your own cruise director.
Generally speaking, October is the most predictable month weather-wise. Barring the occasional anomaly (it does snow in October on occasion), most of the days are in the 50s and 60s, while the nights can dip down into the 20s and teens. Be sure to pack shorts and T-shirts as well as fleeces, flannels and jeans.
In November, the weather can be dicier, although there’s still a decent chance of hitting some of those perfect, albeit cooler, days. Figure that the first good-sized snow of the season usually hits around Halloween, and some of the ski areas will even open up around this time if they can.
SO HERE’S A SHORTLIST OF THINGS TO DO IN THE HIGH COUNTRY IN OCTOBER AND THE FIRST HALF OF NOVEMBER:
LEAF-PEEPING: Colorado is not New England or even the Midwest, with their blazing, multi-colored palettes of fall foliage. But autumn’s star—the aspen—nonetheless gives a strong performance here with its golden hues standing out in sharp contrast to the surrounding evergreens. The trick to leaf-peeping in Colorado is to make the altitude work for you. If Breckenridge, at 9,600 feet, is already past its fall prime, just descend another thousand feet to, say, the Vail Valley, where autumn may still be very much in high season.
Conversely, if the aspen are stubbornly green at a lower altitude, a trip up the hill (go rental car, go!) can cure that.
HIKING: Gone are the summer crowds and even the wet trails from early summer. Also history are the warmer days that can make a hike a sweaty affair. Throw in the turning aspen and those crisp, sunny days, and fall is simply the very best time to take advantage of the Colorado High Country’s extraordinary array of hiking trails. Pick up a local guidebook and find a trail that suits your ability. Hiking is also a great way to ameliorate any guilt you might have about over-indulging at the two-for-one dinners.
BIKING: For the same reasons that it’s the best time to hike, autumn is prime time for biking, whether on the paved paths that grace the resort areas or the single-track dirt trails. The paths and trails are nearly deserted, and the local shops often offer discount rentals.
GOLFING: This is it—the final days of the season for the mountain golf courses. Again, location is everything since the higher-altitude courses close earlier in the season. Even so, most of them stay open well into October, with deep discounts on greens fees and the kind of weather golfers in Texas can only dream about. Into November, you’ll have to look west to the Vail Valley and beyond for courses that stay open later.
LAZING: Sometimes, just setting up house in a nice hotel is vacation enough, especially for parents who have managed to get away without the kids (thanks, grandma!). With fall rates, you can afford to go up a notch or two in hotel quality, and many of the high-end lodges also have spas that offer discounted services. Spas, local recreation centers and other indoor pursuits are good options to have if the weather turns bad.
TOURING TOWN: While some of the resorts are ghostly at this time of year, “real” towns like Breckenridge, Steamboat and Aspen are still open for business, and shop owners are happy to see a customer stroll through the doors. Restaurants often offer discounts—be sure to check the local paper for deals. Great bargains can also be found on summer gear and clothing.
SWAPPING: Locals know that fall is the time for ski swaps—events where skis, snowboards, ski apparel and other products are available at great prices. Again, check the local papers to see if any swaps are going on or if any of the local ski shops are doing tent sales and the like.
SKIING: Finally, if you’re into November, you can probably get a few runs in at the ski areas that have opened early for the season. Mix it up by skiing a few runs in the morning and going for a hike in the afternoon.
Then, start making plans for a return next fall, wondering why anyone would stick to high season for a taste of paradise.
FALL DEALS IN THE ROCKIES
HERE’S A LOOK AT SOME OF THE DEALS AVAILABLE AT THE RESORTS DURING THE AUTUMN OFF-SEASON.
At Vail Cascade Resort & Spa, enjoy one of the region’s top lodges for a song, compared to high-season prices. From October, starting room rates in the hotel drop from $169 (Sunday to Wednesday) to $139, then down to $109 in November. With Vail Mountain slated to open November 18, you can ski and stay for cheap at one of the world’s top destinations. Another option is the condominium complex adjacent to the hotel. The condos include all hotel services and amenities, and a two-bedroom in October starts at only $160; a three-bedroom at $205. www.vailcascade.com
With two very nice golf courses, Keystone is a great option for linksters looking for a deal. Packages start at $90 per night, including a room and a round of golf—that’s less than the green fees during high season. Keystone also offers a variety of free activities for guests, such as nature hikes, bike rentals and yoga classes. www.keystoneresort.com
Steamboat might be a little bit more of a drive, but is well worth it. This fall, the resort has a Grand Spa package that includes a stay at the Steamboat Grand Resort Hotel and a massage or facial, starting at $145. There’s also a bed-and-breakfast package, beginning at $110 per night. www.steamboatgrand.com