RESTAURANT GUIDE SEPTEMBER 2005
WORDS BY TONY WARE
The Globe $$
75 Fifth St NW, Midtown.
404-541-1487
CASUAL
Opened by local restaurateur and self-proclaimed Anglophile Govantez Lowndes, the Globe is a world cuisine-informed, unhurried bistro set in a cutting-edge neighborhood. Located in Georgia Tech’s Technology Square, the Globe looks like a space-age study hall and showcases deftly overlaid textures and flavors. The floor-to-ceiling-windowed and glass bottle/bulb-lined creamy corner space is decked out with filmy curtains and muted aqua and mossy green upholstery to create a bright airy space that is polished and urban without being restrictively urbane. It’s an unfussy environment, perfect for celebrating the clarity of chef Joshua Perkins’ organic multi-dimensional cuisine, as well as the satisfying cocktails and desserts. Arrive early for the daily “Alive After Five” happy hour, which serves up bargain-priced drinks and snacks.
WEST MIDTOWN/EAST POINT/DECATUR
Quinones at Bacchanalia $$$$
1198 Howell Mill Rd. 404-365-0410
DRESSY
Quinones is the third venture of critically feted restaurateurs Anne Quatrano and Clifford Harrison— owners/chefs of Bacchanalia and Floataway Café—and furthers their four-star reputation for emphasizing Georgia-grown organic produce in intimate settings. Offering a single seating of 36 patrons nightly, Quinones features eight to 10 deftly plated and wine-paired courses of exquisitely earthy cuisine.
Ambra $$
1425 Ellsworth Industrial Blvd NW. 404-352-2888
DRESSY CASUAL
A mustard-hued culinary arena located in the Westside warehouse district turn-of-the-century Lumberyard Lofts, Ambra puts Southwestern and Mediterranean cuisine together in a robust mosaic. The menu is as ample as the exposed red brick interior. Whether in the mood for tacos or hickory-grilled filets of a myriad of meats, Ambra runs the gamut with brisk efficiency.
Thumbs Up Diner $
1617 White Way. 404-768-3776
CASUAL
The Thumbs Up Diner is an in-demand all-day breakfast room offering humble and honest fuel for those either recovering from a long night or preparing for a long day. This isn’t your typical diner—it’s a packed-to-capacity kitchen that specializes in biscuit sandwiches, French toast, griddlecakes, omelets and heaps of potatoes prepared with scientific precision and prodigious soul. No beat is missed or fundament overlooked for those seeking a cornerstone meal.
Doc Green’s
782 Ponce de Leon Ave NE. 404-446-1750
CASUAL
Doc Green’s is the latest franchise from the successful Atlanta-based Raving Brands group and sits behind the slogan “Healthy as you Wanna Be.” The flagship storefront is an asymmetrical construct of yellow and celery stripes, also offering patio dining. The foundation here are the signature, customizable salads, but those wanting more carbs can opt for flatbread sandwiches.
Sweet Lime $$
1128 Euclid Ave. 404-589-9696
CASUAL
A sassy Asian fusion restaurant in Little Five Points, Sweet Lime is tart and tangy, indeed. Within orange and lime walls, Thai and Japanese elements are presented with zest in the sushi and entrées. The space— with its bold Warhol-esque décor and funky soundtrack—screams cocktail lounge, but there’s no attitude nor ignoring that cuisine comes first.
Udipi $
1850 Lawrenceville Hwy Ste 700. 404-325-1933
CASUAL
Named after a region of Southern India, this café offers a survey of deep-fried yet not deeply greasy vegetarian cuisine. Fritters, samosas, puffed pancakes and all manner of breaded vegetables are served with lentils, rice, yogurt, cilantro and curry condiments. The décor and cuisine may appear outwardly modest, but the flavors hidden within the supremely affordable fare are expansive.
City Grill $$$
50 Hurt Plaza SE. 404-524-2489
DRESSY CASUAL
The sumptuous and stately City Grill is grand and gilt, yet attentive to the most intimate details.
And the same goes for the New American cuisine. Haute updates of comfort foods are offered with the luxurious gentility expected of the South’s Gotham.
PONCEY-HIGHLANDS/ LITTLE FIVE POINTS
Two Urban Licks $$
820 Ralph McGill Blvd. 404-522-4622
FUNKY CASUAL
A cavernous post-industrial space with a 360-degree open kitchen and 14-foot rotisserie tower centerpiece, Two Urban Licks is certainly a feast for the eyes, but doesn’t ignore the other senses. Loud and theatrical, it offers jubilant small plates, moist braised meats, fresh seafood and kegs of sumptuous wine with festive conversation and live blues.
Eclipse di Sol $$
640 North Highland Ave. 404-724-0711
CASUAL
Opened by James Erlich as a sister restaurant to tapas pioneer Eclipse di Luna, Eclipse di Sol is as different from that restaurant as night and day. An airy, apricot-hued dining room with a bustling patio, it features the cuisine of Patti Roth, who balances hearty dishes with light, spry counterpoints. In addition, breakfast is offered all day.
MIDTOWN/ANSLEY PARK/ MORNINGSIDE
The Oceanaire Seafood Room $$$$
1100 Peachtree St. 404-475-2277
DRESSY CASUAL/DRESSY
Located in Midtown, the Oceanaire feels nautical miles away—like a ’30s ocean liner’s stateroom. But even the restaurant’s pristine interior can’t rival the impeccable quality and bountiful selections of seafood, flown in fresh daily. Though part of a national chain, chef Adam Newton enjoys the flexibility and creativity of offering certain selections tailored to Southern/ Low Country tastes.
Fuego Café and Tapas Bar $$
1136 Crescent Ave. 404-389-0660
CASUAL
Located in the Crescent Avenue clubbing district, Fuego has a glossy interior and flirty energy, often featuring live music. Unlike the surrounding clubs, this isn’t a pick-up joint… except as a place to pick up savory Spanish tapas. Along with the sultry bite-sized delights, Fuego has a well-rounded and affordable by-the-glass wine list and a charming patio.
Papi’s
216 Ponce de Leon Ave. 404-607-1525
CASUAL
Easily identifiable by the folk art emblazoned walls, Papi’s still features some less quickly identifiable nuances. Take the Cuban sandwich, made with shredded pork marinated in smoky mojo. Not many people realize that’s the East Cuban way. But that’s what Papi’s does—authentic, made-from-scratch cooking, from the tamales and empanadas to the mamey milkshake.
Silk
919 Peachtree St. 678-705-8888
DRESSY CASUAL
A $2-million spotless space in Midtown’s gleaming mixed-use Metropolis megaplex, Silk celebrates sleekness from the opulent décor to the Pan-Asian cuisine. Besides the internationally sourced accoutrements, one of Silk’s most unique features is the offering of kaiseki (Japanese tapas). However, the eye for detail and custom crafting extends through sashimi, seafood and steak.
Tierra $$$
1425 Piedmont Ave NE. 404-874-5951
DRESSY CASUAL/DRESSY
Everything about Tierra—from the locale to the pan-Latin cuisine—is cozy. Inside this salmon-colored sliver of Ansley Park, warmth radiates from every nook, neighborhood regular and nuanced dish. Whether searching for a Spanish preparation or a South American wine, you can have complete faith that Tierra’s owners have meticulously weighed regional favorites to offer the most sumptuous without being showy.
Alon’s $
1394 North Highland Ave. 404-872-6000
CASUAL
A combination bakery and bistro, Alon’s offers a wealth of gourmet take-home. Pick up freshly baked loaves, artisan cheeses, pastries and a plethora of prepared entrées and sides to pair with a bottle of wine from an eclectic, handpicked selection. Or, order a crisp saucy sandwich and a cookie, and sit and decompress at the handful of picnic tables.
BUCKHEAD/OUTSIDE THE PERIMETER
Prime $$$
3393 Peachtree Rd. 404-812-0555
CASUAL/DRESSY CASUAL
Prime may be attached to Lenox Mall, but this is a steak house in a classic sense, not prone to follow the latest just-off-the-rack culinary trends. Prime-aged beef, flown in daily, gives the restaurant its name and reputation, and the slick, lustrous décor is equally focused. The only trend injected is the inclusion of artistically presented sushi and seafood.
The Capital Grille $$$$
255 East Paces Ferry Rd. 404-262-1162
DRESSY
Buckhead’s Capital Grille, with its vast wine lists and liquor lockers, proves that dry aged doesn’t have to mean stuffy. This wood-paneled, run-like-clockwork steak house has refined gentleman’s club trappings, but an energy courses through the place from the young professionals crowding in for martinis and indulgent cuts of meat. Desserts are good, but the view of downtown Atlanta is truly sweet.
Buckhead Diner $$$
3073 Piedmont Rd. 404-262-3336
CASUAL/DRESSY
Part of the Buckhead Life Restaurant Group, this is not your average diner. It dresses up comfort foods till they are theater, releasing star after star from the exhibition kitchen. Neon and chrome give way to marble and mahogany, and dishes like Peruvian sea bass and veal meatloaf are served in a setting and on a menu of upscale, updated retro.
Haven $$$
1441 Dresden Dr, Ste 160. 404-969-0700
CASUAL/DRESSY
Tucked away from the city’s bustle at the end of a Brookhaven development, Haven offers flavors as bold and expansive as the richly toned loft-like surroundings. International gourmet bistro cuisine is offered within a dynamic dining arena where boisterous neighborhood foodies, an open kitchen and attentive servers liven up the already vivacious twists on chic comfort foods.
Restaurant Eugene $$$$
2277 Peachtree Rd. 404-355-0321
CASUAL/DRESSY
Located on the ground floor of a high-rise, Restaurant Eugene is that rare restaurant that offers an environment and cuisine that are understated without being underdeveloped. Service and plating is genteel and graceful, celebrating seasonal, regional medleys on a rotating, evolving menu that’s kept concise. The snug, muted gray/beige interior and service also forego flashy for unobtrusive and mature.
Ray’s on the River $$
6700 Powers Ferry Rd NW. 770-955-1187
CASUAL/DRESSY
Located on the Chattahoochee River, this lodge-like, multilevel Sunday brunch favorite offers a palatial buffet in a similarly expansive setting. The comfort foods and comfortable surroundings—sometimes featuring a live jazz band—both emphasize classic over quirky. Don’t look for fusion cuisine or architectural wonders, just good solid seafood selections and a festive crowd.
Canton Cooks $$
5984 Roswell Rd NE. 404-252-0322
CASUAL
You can often gauge an ethnic restaurant’s authenticity by its clientele, and walking into Canton Cooks you immediately notice Cantonese as the predominant language. Canton Cooks offers a wide variety of seafood- and duck-heavy cuisine with finesse until 2am. But don’t just listen to the language of the diners—the food speaks for itself.