HOME TURF GREGG ALLMAN

Q&A BY CATHERINE ARNOLD

SIMPLICITY FOUND, IN SAVANAH

Musician Gregg Allman talks us through the Southern delights that drew him to his adopted city of Savannah

Along with his dogs and in-house recording studio, Gregg Allman has lived just outside of Savannah since 1999, when he relocated from San Francisco. Having grown up in Nashville and Daytona Beach, the move to Savannah signaled a return to his Southern roots. Best known as the lead singer, organist and principle songwriter for the Allman Brothers Band, founded by his brother Duane in 1969, Allman has enjoyed a parallel solo career nearly from the beginning. He currently tours with his band Gregg Allman & Friends.

Allman describes Savannah as “a very, very laidback, pretty little Deep South town,” and when he ventures into the city from his custom-built coastal home, he makes a beeline for Southern-style food, and frequently turns up for a local boxing match.

Let’s talk about that food…

I’m surprised I don’t weigh about 400 pounds, considering how much I like to eat. Missing Southern food is one of the reasons I moved here. There are terrific chefs in San Francisco, but it was hard to find a decent black-eyed pea within the city limits. I like old established places. Fast food isn’t me; the one place I do like is Steak ’n Shake, and I rarely go there.

Here in Savannah, Olde Pink House is wonderful. People sit at large round tables, and servers bring out communal bowls of mashed potatoes and other Southern-style vegetables and set them on lazy Susans. It’s like eating at grandma’s house.

At The Lady and Sons, you get in line and go down this incredible seafood smorgasbord. The choices change about every three minutes. Another good seafood place is Shell House, owned by my neighbors. It has steamed oysters, shrimp and all kinds of good local stuff.

The Crystal Beer Parlor is a family-owned place that opened in 1933, with leather booths and pictures of Savannah in the 1800s on the walls. Specialties are fried oysters, shrimp salad sandwiches and crab stew.

For the best barbecue in the world, I’m telling you, go to Wall’s. It’s mostly takeout—there are about three tables in there—and a couple of old ladies cook that stuff all day. It’s dynamite.

Al Seeger

And the boxing?

Jarrell’s Gym has bouts about once a month. It’s in an old, renovated building under the Savannah River Bridge. There are about seven or eight bouts, four of which are three-rounders. The finale is ten rounds. That takes incredible stamina—it’s hard to go ten rounds of anything. Those boxers grew up around here, in many cases they probably fought their way out of the ghetto, and now they fight at the gym.

Where do you refuel your music?

Annie Allman, my distant cousin, owns the music store Annie’s Guitars. I go there if I need strings or equipment for the studio. Incidentally, besides owning a music store, Annie’s a real good player; she does drums and bass. Last time we played at the auditorium, she sat in and played drums with us.

How do you enjoy the outdoors in Savannah?

A bunch of friends and I go fishing at various holes around the county and in the ocean. Sometimes we fish up by Ossabaw Island or St. Catherines Island.

How do you kick back?

I like to go to my friend Hubert Keller’s place, Keller’s Flea Market, between Richmond Hill and Savannah. You can buy everything from a tractor to a puppy and all kinds of other things.

HERE’S WHERE TO GO:

Olde Pink House

Olde Pink House
Olde Pink House, a 1770s pink mansion, is known for its pan-seared crabcake, she-crab soup and fine chocolate torte. 912-232-4286
The Lady and Sons Paula Deen, host of The Food Network show “Paula’s Home Cooking,” is owner and chef. www.ladyandsons.com

Shell House Restaurant Shell House fills up fast with seafood-starved devotees, so be sure to arrive early. www.realpagessites.com/shellhouserestaurant

Crystal Beer Parlor In its early days, this local institution sold huge sandwiches for just a dime. www.crystalbeerparlor.net

Wall’s Bar-B-Que In addition to the expected ribs, pork and BBQ chicken, the menu includes devil crab and fried fish. 912-232-9754

Jarrell’s Gym Be sure to root for local favorites Al “The Quiet Storm” Seeger, Danny “Dangerous” Green and Chevelle “Fists of Steel” Hallback. www.jarrellsgym.com

Annie’s Guitars Being a musician herself, Annie only sells quality goods as demonstrated by her store motto, “If I wouldn’t use it, I won’t sell it to you.” www.anniesguitars.com

Keller’s Flea Market With over 10,000 visitors each week, and everything from antiques to food, this is one market not to miss. www.ilovefleas.com

For info about Gregg Allman shows, visit www.greggallman.com