FEATURE CHICAGO SPORTS
WORDS BY ROD O’CONNOR
Whether it’s the Cubs on the North Side, the White Sox on the South Side or the Bears on the lakefront, Chicago’s open-air stadiums and their surrounding areas offer an experience second to none.
The minute the Boston Red Sox won the 2004 World Series, the epicenter of sports futility inarguably shifted to Chicago, where two storied baseball franchises vie for the longest championship drought. The Cubs haven’t won the World Series since 1908 and the White Sox, last crowned champs in 1917, haven’t fared much better. But each and every season, Chicago fans come out en masse to support their teams as “wait ‘till next year” heartbreak gives way to clean-slate optimism.
Remember those Super Fans sketches on “Saturday Night Live?” Well, they were only slight exaggerations. Chicago and its fans are a throwback to another era, where loyalties are passed on from generation to generation, and legendary heroes like Ernie Banks and Walter Payton loom large, perpetuating the image of Chicago as “the city that works.” It’s this passion that makes Chicago a mecca for sports lovers around the world, and one place where you can still savor the purity of professional sports. “The lakefront, Michigan Avenue, baseball… in the summertime there’s no better city,” says slugger Frank Thomas, a member of the White Sox for more than 15 years. “Some people say New York, but I only know Chicago. There’s no better sports town.”
September is the perfect time to experience the drama and heartbreak of Chicago sports, with the Cubs and White Sox playing baseball on both sides of town and the Bears kicking off downtown on the lakefront. Each of the gorgeous, open-air venues provides the perfect place to enjoy the last days of summer while rooting for the home team. And who cares whether the teams are in contention? Chicago fans aren’t accustomed to winning anyway—Michael Jordan’s award-winning Bulls teams excluded—but whether you choose to sneak off for an afternoon at Wrigley Field, an evening fireworks show at US Cellular Field or a gridiron showdown at the newly renovated Soldier Field, you’re guaranteed to have a memorable time.
THE BEARS AT SOLDIER FIELD
Built in 1923, Soldier Field was a crumbling, albeit charming, mess before its 2003 renovation. Today, the stadium rivals any facility in the league with state-of-the-art video monitors, spacious walkways, fan- friendly sight lines and extra bathrooms. And while the design generated controversy—some refer to the seating bowl placed atop the original classical pillars as the “toilet bowl”—there’s no denying the new version delivers a spectator experience befitting the beautiful lakefront setting.
Soldier Field2005 is a special year for Chicago sports, as the Bears celebrate the 20th anniversary of their ’85 World Championship title. And while most Bears fans would rather see that team suit up, the 2005 home games are sure to be sellouts. To really appreciate what Bears football means to the city, stop by downtown Daley Plaza on Friday, September 23 for what might be the only pep rally held 20 years after a Super Bowl victory.
“In Chicago, when you put on a uniform, you take on that blue-collar persona… the fans see us as one of them,” says the ’85 team’s former co-captain Shaun Gayle. “When a team wins a championship, it’s like everyone has won. We had one magical year that struck a chord. People who weren’t football fans watched because of the characters we had.”
Make no mistake, Chicago is first and foremost a Bears town. Your best bet for tickets may be to check with your hotel concierge—most work with several local ticket brokers on behalf of their guests. But be prepared to pay above face value, especially for a game against a conference rival.
The historic Printer’s Row neighborhood provides the best dining options. Try Hackney’s (www.hackneysprintersrow.net), a classy pub known for its Hackneyburger, or for a more upscale meal, enjoy turn-of-the-century charm at the Chicago Firehouse Restaurant (www.chicagofirehouse.com), specializing in steaks, chops and seafood.
On Bears Sundays, roam the Museum Campus, home to the Field Museum and Adler Planetarium. Or soak up the pomp and circumstance at the nearby parking lots. While tailgating is officially relegated to the 31st Street Parking Lot two miles south, chances are you’ll find Chicago fans gearing up before the game and, hopefully, celebrating a Bears victory after.
THE WHITE SOX THE WHITE SOX AT US CELLULAR FIELD CELLULAR FIELD
US Cellular FieldA little more than 10 miles south of Wrigley, and just a 10-minute trip from downtown on the “L,” you’ll find US Cellular Field, home of the Chicago White Sox. And while the stadium—formerly known as New Comiskey Park—has taken knocks since its 1991 opening for not being as quaint as Wrigley Field, the White Sox organization has made several improvements, most notably removing eight rows of seats from the notorious upper deck. Today, US Cellular is appreciated as a clean, comfortable, family-friendly park. And surrounding Bridgeport, once considered dangerous, is now one of Chicago’s up-and-coming neighborhoods.
Indeed, if you want to see the “real” Chicago, a White Sox game delivers the goods. If a ticket to a game is hard to come by, take a shot at premium seats by showing up at the Gate Four box office at 9am on game day and asking if any tickets have been released for purchase.
With a shortage of local watering holes for fans, the team built the Bullpen Sports Bar inside the park. While the bar’s concrete environs are best enjoyed during a rain delay, the two-tiered open-air section is one of baseball’s great secrets, offering table-side service and near game-level views for an additional $15 fee. Here’s the best way to score one of the 116 seats: Buy a cheap ticket and then arrive at Gate Two when the park opens two hours before game time.
US Cellular allows tailgating before and after the game, but the food quality in the park makes pre-game dining unnecessary. Choose from the Major League’s widest variety, with the requisite hot dogs and burgers accented by ethnic offerings like fajitas and corn off the cob, or elotes, served in a cup with mayo, butter, cheese and chili powder—just like the street vendors in Chicago’s Latin-American neighborhoods.
While Bridgeport bars and restaurants don’t jump out at you like the ones in Wrigleyville, the area showcases Chicago without the touristy craziness. Jimbo’s (312-326-3253), a short walk across Armour Park is where real White Sox fans go for a beer on the way to the park. If you’re looking for a dark, friendly dive after the game, share a drink with the off-duty cops and ballpark workers at Redwood Lounge (3200 S Wallace). Still hungry? Head to Freddie’s (312-808-0147), a mom-andpop Italian joint with take-out and sit-down service. Try a beef sandwich or their specialty, the double sausage.
THE CUBS THE CUBS AT WRIGLEY AT WRIGLEY FIELD
When many think Chicago sports, the first image that comes to mind is Wrigley Field. Built in 1914, the “Friendly Confines” is hosting its 92nd season of Major League Baseball in 2005, making it the second-oldest ballpark behind Boston’s Fenway Park (1912). Located on Chicago’s North Side, Wrigley and its historic moments are well-documented: Babe Ruth’s called shot, Ernie Banks’ 500th career home run and Pete Rose’s 4,191st career hit, which tied him with Ty Cobb for the most in baseball history. The neighborhood setting makes an afternoon at Wrigley the quintessential Chicago experience.
Parking is an expensive hassle near Wrigley, so ride with the locals on the northbound Red Line “L” train. Arrive a few hours early to sample some of the neighborhood’s drinking establishments. If good seats at the stadium aren’t available, check if the barkeep has extra tickets for sale. The best seats in the afternoon are, of course, in the sun, so try to score a general admission bleacher ticket.
Before, during or after the game, Murphy’s Bleachers (www..murphysbleachers.com) is jam-packed but worth the effort. Voted America’s Best Sports Bar by ESPN, this venerable institution was built in the ’30s and is the best place to watch a game if you can’t get a ticket. On the other end of the ballpark, Clark Street offers two winning spots: Yak-zies (773-327-1717), with a dual-level outdoor deck and world-class buffalo wings, and Bernie’s Tavern (773-525-1898), which offers a dive bar in the front and a party tent in the back.
If the crowds become too much, stroll a few blocks from Wrigley to Higgins Tavern (773-327-7637), a true neighborhood pub that boasts a great jukebox and grub that’s a cut above typical bar fare. Or venture to the Nisei Lounge (773-525-0557), a no-nonsense haven for cheap drinks along with billiards, darts and sake shots for the willing.
AirTran Airways provides daily, low-fare flights to Chicago Midway International Airport. Visit www.airtran.com for more details.‚
GET YOUR TICKETS HERE
The Chicago Cubs play at Wrigley Field, the second-oldest ballpark in Major League Baseball, at 1060 W Addison. In September, the team hosts the Cincinnati Reds (Sept 12-14), St. Louis Cardinals (Sept 15-18), Houston Astros (Sept 23-25) and Pittsburgh Pirates (Sept 27-28). Tickets from $6 to $60. Call 773-404-CUBS or visit www.cubs.com
US Cellular Field, at 333 W 35th Street, is the spacious, family-friendly home to the Chicago White Sox. September home games include the Detroit Tigers (Sept 1-4), Kansas City Royals (Sept 6-8), LA Angels (Sept 9-11), Cleveland Indians (Sept 19-21) and Minnesota Twins (Sept 22-25). Tickets from $7 to $52. Call 866-SOX-GAME or visit www.chisox.com
The National Football League’s Chicago Bears can be seen at the newly renovated Soldier Field, 1410 S Museum Campus Road, just south of downtown on the lakefront. This month, the Bears play the Detroit Lions (Sept 18) and Cincinnati Bengals (Sept 25). Tickets from $50 to $330. Call 847-615-BEAR or visit www.chicagobears.com
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