LA CANYONS: Canyon Country

WORDS BY NICK BURRY

There’s more to LA than highways, beaches and boulevards. When the going gets tough, Angelinos head to the hills and canyons that divide the city for some rustic relaxation.

Los Angeles is a huge place, and to explore it like a true Angelino, you definitely need a ride. But it’s not always easy for the visitor to navigate the complex network of highways and townships that mak e up the city. LA is really two cities divided by a low mountain range, and united under an une asy truce. On one side, you’ve got the malls and mo vie studios of the Valley; the other side is home to the mor e recognizable beach neighborhoods and side walk stars.

Connecting the two halves of the city is a series of oak-lined canyons that wind through the hills.

These canyons form a buffer zone between the glitzy coastal communities and the sprawling suburbs; a sort of quasi-wilderness, where you’re just as likely to come across a half-wild coyote as a half-s tarved screenwriter. But the canyons are more than just throughways. They’re urban oases that offer their own unique dining, recreational opportunities.

Topanga Canyon

All the canyons have their o wn distinct character, but Topanga is particularly beautiful and diverse. On the northern edge of the city, Top anga Canyon runs from the quiet family community of Woodland Hills to exclusive Malibu with it s breathtaking views. The miles of winding, scenic road are worthy of a luxury car commercial. Tooling along side a babbling creek, through tunnels o f overhanging oaks, hugging the cliff-sides, it’s easy to forget you’re in one of the world’s great metropolises. Top anga Canyon is more than just a pr etty drive, though. It’s like a town within a city, with it’s own special blend of hippie and yup pie culture, with a dash of the Old West.

History

Topanga Canyon has always been a magnet for thos e seeking the good life. Over 8,000 years ago, the Chumash Indians w’ere taking advantage of the abundant food and water in the canyon. The first ranch popped up in 1885, and around the turn of the century, citizens from the burgeoning burg of Los Angeles would come out t o Topanga Canyon on hunting trips. The ’40s and ’50s saw an influx of artists to the area looking to “rough it.” Resident musicians like Woody Guthrie, Joni Mitchell and Alice Cooper e stablished Topanga as a hotbed of music and c ounter-culture. Local legend has it that the Doors’ Jim Morrison wrote “Road House Blues” there. Even though times have changed and the price of real estate has skyrocketed, Topanga Canyon still exudes a sense of ’60s idealism and down-home, honky-tonk good times.

The Park

Considered to be “the world’s largest wildland within the boundaries of a major city,” Topanga State Park (www.parks.ca.g ov) is a perfect starting place to get to know the canyon. With 36 miles of trails leading up to panoramic views, there’s way more than a day’s worth of activitie s in the park.

Hikers can explore the sycamore and oak forests, tiny cliff gardens formed in rock depr essions and seasonal waterfalls. This is one plac e in LA where wildlife still abounds. Coyotes shuffle in the shadow s during the evenings and early mornings, and the discerning visit or may be treated to glimpses of deer, bobcats, hawks and dozens of other common and rare species. There are also trails for mountain biking and hor seback riding.

Shopping

In the center of Topanga Canyon, there’s a cluster of small shops and boutiques that bo ast original handicraft s and garments. One of the most popular spots is the vintage clothes store, Hidden Treasures (310-455-2998). Visitors often brush elbows with Hollywood types as they pore over the funky wares.

Eats

One eatery right in the heart of the canyon that’s popular with locals and day-trippers alike is Abuelitas (www.abuelitastopanga.com). Grab a creekside table on the outdoor patio and enjoy the Mexican specialties, from fish tacos and carne asada to handmade tamales. After all, Topanga was part of Mexico until 1848.

For a touch of class in a hideaway setting, direct your appetite to the Inn of the Seventh Ray (www.innoftheseventhray.com). At the Inn, they believe in using natural foods whenever possible, favoring organically grown produce from local farms. The menu—which includes artichokes stuffed three ways, agave-glazed vegan duck and a filet of naturally raised beef with a portabella cabernet reduction—has something for everyone, but the rustic, romantic atmosphere alone is worth the trip.

When you’re in the mood for some seafood comfort in a casual atmosphere, drop by the Reel Inn (310-456-8221). Located where Topanga Canyon meets the Pacific, this seafood institution consistently delivers with its fresh fish, simply prepared, in a funky shack-like setting. For many Angelinos, the perfect meal is a nobrainer: the canyon and the hills behind you, the ocean in front of you, and a plate overflowing with shrimp at your table.

The canyons are special places that serve as rustic refuges from the bustle of traffic and city life, yet they remain off the beaten track for most tourists. However, visitors who do venture to LA’s canyons will be treated to a unique blend of natural beauty, Hollywood history and four-star elegance.

Other Canyons

Topanga is a dazzling destination, but it’s not the only ace in the deck. While LA’s central canyons are more urbanized, they’re brimming with history and character, and shouldn’t be overlooked by visitors.

Laurel Canyon has seen its share of crime and violence, from 19th-century outlaws to ’80s drug runners. Modern-day traffic bandits still use the canyon to escape the gridlock on the freeway. Laurel runs from the major Hollywood studios of the San Fernando Valley to the hippest bars and clubs of the Sunset Strip. In between are several very good restaurants, including Pacé (www.peaceinthecanyon.com), where chef/ owner Sandy Gendel “fuses organics with art.” Diners enjoy the rustic menu of salads, pastas and pizzas, as well as live music.

Beachwood Canyon, in the shadow of the Hollywood sign, exudes Old Hollywood charm. Humphrey Bogart once lived there, and the chase scene from the original Invasion of the Body Snatchers was filmed in front of Beachwood Market. Steep, narrow staircases connect some of the tiny streets in the canyon. Climbing them is a great way to explore the architecture of the area and stumble upon some killer views. After the workout, grab a shake or a cup of inky Joe at the greasy-spoon throwback Village Coffee Shop (323-467-5398), and keep your eyes peeled for baseball-capped, sunglass-shaded stars.

Joni Mitchell at her Laurel Canyon home.

Beverly Glen Canyon is three miles of very beautiful, very expensive real estate running from Mulholland Drive to Sunset Boulevard. It’s a dream neighborhood for millionaires who’d rather fall asleep to the sound of coyotes howling than waves crashing on the beach. Luxury home lovers will also get a thrill out of Coldwater and Benedict Canyons, which are home to some of the most exclusive real estate in the city. Beverly Glen offers several fine dining venues to match the swanky surroundings. Executive chef Peter Roelant of the beautiful Four Oaks Restaurant (www.fouroaksrestaurant.com) wows diners with dishes like truffle-coated sweet scallops, roasted maple-leaf duck breast and oven-roasted venison chop with lingonberries.

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