RESTAURANT GUIDE JUNE 2005

WORDS BY TONY WARE

THE ATLANTA RESTAURANT GUIDE

Two Urban Licks $$

820 Ralph McGill Blvd, Poncey-Highlands. 404-522-4622

FUNKY CASUAL

A cavernous, soaring post-industrial space with bulging Japanese lanterns, a tantalizing view of the Midtown skyline, a 360-degree open kitchen and a 14-foot rotisserie tower centerpiece, Two Urban Licks is certainly a feast for the eyes.

But let us not forget the other senses. A loud and theatrical experience, Two Urban Licks (the bustling sister of One Midtown Kitchen) features jubilant small plates, moist braised meats, a deft hand with seafood and kegs of sumptuous wine against a backdrop of festive conversation and live blues.

BUCKHEAD/DUNWOODY/ ALPHARETTA

Portofino $$

3199 Paces Ferry Pl. 404-231-1136

CASUAL

Only a handful of blocks from Buckhead’s most bustling intersection, this Italian-influenced American bistro offers a charming retreat with a popular patio. Unassuming and accommodating, Portofino expertly balances succulent and inviting meats with crisp and agreeably sweet/ bittersweet flavors under its vaulted ceilings and warmly hued paintings. Additionally, the servers are well versed in pairing wines.

Atlanta Fish Market $$$

265 Pharr Rd. 404-262-3165

CASUAL/DRESSY

Hard to miss with its arcing 30-foot copper fish sculpture, Buckhead Life’s Atlanta Fish Market is also hard to resist, offering the largest fresh seafood selection in the Southeast. Long Island Blue Point oysters, Alaskan Snow crab, Key West Stone crab, Maine lobster or 20 types of fish served in several styles—just a few reasons it’s worth the swim upstream.

Blue Ridge Grill $$$$

1261 West Paces, Ferry Rd. 404-233-5030

DRESSY CASUAL/DRESSY

Like a ski resort steak house, Blue Ridge Grill is rustic but refined. Despite the nearby Interstate, this chalet—with its rocking chair porch, pine beams and stone fireplace tucked behind hedges—feels worlds away. Hickory grilled Georgia trout, sweet crab cakes, horseradish crusted grouper or mammoth, juicy steaks with family sized sides add to the get-away, but the service never vacations.

Café Intermezzo $$

1845 Peachtree Rd. 404-355-0411

CASUAL/FUNKY CASUAL/ DRESSY CASUAL Equally attractive to the see-andbe-seen and starry-eyed hideaway crowds, Café Intermezzo is a Buckhead mainstay that never seems out of fashion. Modeled after a Viennese kaffehaus, the Intermezzo was established in 1979 and has been serving small plates, impeccably pulled espresso and decadent desserts to professionals by day and lovers by night and visiting celebrities on the downlow ever since.

Eclipse di Luna $

764 Miami Circle. 404-846-0449

CASUAL

Located in a rustic, low-slung building at the end of an isolated warehouse design district, Eclipse di Luna is nonetheless densely populated at all times. This shabby chic, earth tones-dappled tapas bar draws in parties of all sizes with festive Latin American flair and fare, making it a perfect locale to grab a glass of sangria and some plates of tasty morsels to share.

Rainwater $$$

11655 Haynes Bridge Rd, Alpharetta. 770-777-0033

DRESSY CASUAL

In the tradition of an eclectically decorated Napa Valley vineyard estate, Rainwater is all sweep and scope, but without sacrificing finesse. Also a special events facility, Rainwater is palatial and can accommodate romantic couples or business conferences. No detail in the seasonal New American seafood-leaning cuisine is lacking.

Prime $$$

3393 Peachtree Rd. 404 812-0555

CASUAL/DRESSY CASUAL

Prime may be attached to Lenox Mall, but this is a steakhouse in a classic sense, not prone to follow the latest just-off-the-rack culinary trends. Prime-aged beef, flown in daily, gives the restaurant its name and reputation. The slick, lustrous decor is equally focused. The only trend injected is the inclusion of artistically presented sushi and seafood.

MIDTOWN

Toast $$

817 West Peachtree St. 404-815-9243

FUNKY CASUAL

Nestled in the shadow of the stately Biltmore building, Toast does not allow its gourmet clarity to be overshadowed by any swankier neighbors in what is a hot culinary part of town.

A little off the main drag, Toast concentrates on reasonable prices for seasonal, homemade New American delicacies served in an immaculate loft of pronounced color, blond wood and brushed metal.

Cherry $$

1051 West Peachtree St. 404-872-2020

FUNKY CASUAL/

DRESSY CASUAL This sensualist socialite showroom promotes the motto, “Eat, Drink and Be Cherry.” And it’s appropriate, because the richly textured eatery is a lot about promoting and attracting —dramatic style. Some fashionistas may crowd the sumptuously red- and chocolate-hued rooms for a liquid diet, but Cherry is also known for its sushi and Pacific Rim influences, especially evident in its seafood dishes.

Tamarind $$$

80 14th St NW. 404-873-4888

DRESSY CASUAL

Almost at the lip of the Interstate on a regularly congested artery, and with difficult parking, Tamarind rewards the effort of getting there with some of the city’s finest Thai food. Brisk service meets bracing, multi-faceted flavors, especially in the curries. The richly nuanced edibles, ambiance and attentiveness are calming in the urban clamor.

Pasta da Pulcinella $$

1123 Peachtree Walk. 404-876-1114

CASUAL/DRESSY CASUAL

A quaint, intimate converted bungalow in Midtown’s nightlife quarter, Pasta da Pulcinella is known for its fresh pastas, and rightly so. Reasonably priced and reasonably portioned, the pastas’ subtle flavors bloom rather than bluster, especially the gnocchi with sausage and the Granny Smith apple-stuffed ravioli. As well, Pasta da Pulcinella is known for romance, so save room for tiramisu and time for canoodling.

DOWNTOWN/WEST MIDTOWN

City Grill $$$

50 Hurt Plaza SE. 404-524-2489

DRESSY CASUAL/DRESSY

The sumptuous, stately former lobby of the Federal Reserve Bank for the Southeast, City Grill is grand and gilt, yet attentive to the most intimate details. And the same goes for the New American cuisine. Haute updates of comfort foods—crab cakes, shrimp grits, entrees with regional vegetables, etc—are offered with the luxurious gentility expected of the South’s Gotham.

Rolling Bones $

377 Edgewood Ave. 404-222-2324

CASUAL

A converted filling station, Rolling Bones fuels downtown professionals and urban pioneers alike with peppery ribs, tangy chopped pork, tender chicken beneath crackly skin and zesty sides served through a drive-thru, sleek dining room or cozy patio. But despite speedy service, this is no fast food —the cooking smacks of meaty detail.

Nuevo Laredo Cantina $

1495 Chattahoochee Ave. 404-352-9009

ANYTHING GOES

An immensely popular destination in an utterly isolated location among furnishing outlets and a Pepsi bottling plant, Nuevo Laredo is the real roadside deal for those seeking Tex-Mex. Crusted with knick-knacks, this cantina is also invariably crawling with people enjoying bold fresh flavors and potent margaritas, so arrive early. Chicken diablo, chicken mole and lobster tacos stand out.

The Food Studio $$$

887 West Marietta St. 404-815-6677

DRESSY CASUAL/DRESSY

A retrofitted manufacturing plant which still has some of its antiquated machinery for show, The Food Studio makes urban urbane and earthy glossy. The space is yin and yang—masculine post-industrial angles basking in candlelight—while the AAA-Four Diamond New American cuisine is pure sensuality, yet crisp with seasonal freshness.

VIRGINIA-HIGHLANDS/ INMAN PARK

Dish $$

870 North Highland Ave. 404-897-3463

DRESSY CASUAL/DRESSY

A gas station conversion on busy North Highland Avenue, easily recognizable for its patio roof’s color-cycling fiberglass supports, Dish serves up New American fare with equally vibrant style. Asian influences give multihued dishes a boutique flare that matches the flirty decor. Try not to miss the signature skate wing and seasonal vegetables or freeform ravioli/lasagna.

Wisteria $$

471 North Highland Ave. 404-525-3363

CASUAL/DRESSY

Amber-hued and mahogany-inlaid, mixing terra cotta and exposed brick, Wisteria sports an equally homey menu of dressed-up Southern cuisine. The contemporary comfort food, robust wine list and sociable bar bridge flavors sweet and rounded with crisp-as-a-front-porch-in-early-fall clarity. The overriding mood is soothing and neighborly, but polished.

Sotto Sotto $$

313 North Highland Ave. 404-523-6678

CASUAL/DRESSY

Once edgy but now elegant, loud but low-key, Sotto Sotto has for years followed a simple concept and set the city’s standard for northern Italian cuisine, centered on robust regional authenticity. This chic, cozy neighborhood trattoria is dedicated to trumpeting the natural flavors of fresh ingredients with rustic old world charm. Miss the risotto and prepare to regret it.

DECATAUR/EAST ATLANTA

The Automatic $

313 Boulevard Ave. 404-588-9062

ANYTHING GOES

A gourmet drive-thru offering “automatic gratification,” the Automatic features a selection of hot-pressed sandwiches, salads and pastas that rise far above the typical grease-drenched thoroughfare fare. Fresh and funky pairings serve to titillate the taste buds of the local up-and-coming surrounding communities.

Carroll St. Café $

208 Carroll St. 404-577-2700

ANYTHING GOES/

FUNKY CASUAL An idyllic slice of bohemia in a quickly gentrifying neighborhood, Carroll St. Café embodies the bustling, exuberant synergy with surroundings like the finest New York City sidewalk café. Loved as a bistro and coffee bar (with full liquor and wine bar), Carroll St. Café offers sandwiches and salads in a setting as quirky yet quaint as its community and clientele.